The Clove Club is so sharp it might cut itself, so hot it might burn itself, etc etc. It’s the first restaurant from the three chaps behind the best London pop-up restaurants and private dining clubs of recent times. So, does this place live up to the hype, or collapse into a foamy brine of moustachioed over-hipness? Well, yes – it does live up to the hype and it is achingly too cool for school. The food is really, really good, though; the menu changes almost daily – a no-choice set dinner in the restaurant for £47, or a choice from the shortish menu in the more informal bar. We liked things that we never thought we would: sheep’s milk mousse, pine-scented buttermilk chicken, even something called blood pudding surprise.
The Clove Club, Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old Street, London EC1, tel +44 207 729 6496 . About £150 for two, including wine in the restaurant, or £100 in the bar
By Jenny Coyle