As pop-up restaurants go – this has to be one of the most elegant yet. Ok, we might be pushing it a bit to call it a pop-up but it’s not far off. They only open for dinner three nights a week (Thurs, Fri and Sat) and the menu is set – with a choice of two starters, two mains and a final dessert or cheese choice. But with skill like this in the kitchen you can relax – you’re in for a treat. Dish descriptions are lengthy to read but fabulous to eat – “Poached hens egg, salted beef, potato, crisp shallots, herb purée and mustard aioli” was to-die-for while “Belly of Wicklow pork dressed with black pudding, cabbage, pork shoulder, compressed apple, potato galette and jus” was worth every word. And you’re enjoying all this in such a pretty setting – the place is found down a lane behind the hustle and bustle of Donnybrook’s main street, housed in an old stone-cut building with a pretty little secret garden out front.
What to do Arrive early and bag a comfy seat in the bar for a pre-dinner glass of something fizzy and then linger with coffee and a night-cap in the little garden.
Perfect pedigree Owner Laura Peat is the foodie force behind Eatery 120 in Ranelagh while chef Tom Doyle is relatively new to the restaurant but seems a perfect fit.
What to drink The wine list, predominantly Old World, offers 18 reds and 18 whites, and is very well priced, starting at €22 and up.
Savvy spender The menu is set at €40 for the 3-courses so there are no big surprises with bill.
Who to bring Your vegetarian date. This is one of the few places that tries as hard for them as everyone else.
We loved The hidden extras: the inhouse breads – seaweed, walnut and olive – that came with delicious pesto and aioli dips and the sorbets between courses, not to mention the surprise dessert.
In the know The place is available for private hire for parties of up to 80 people.