The Greenhouse is Dublin’s answer to NOMA – the lovechild of chefs Mickael Viljanen (ex Gregan’s Castle) and Eamonn O’Reilly (One Pico). It’s more formal than the Danish icon but it’s also all about foraging, meticulously sourced ingredients and pushing boundaries. If you can snare a table on a Saturday night, do because the obligatory five-course tasting menu showcases the range of Viljanen’s vision and technique. It’s not like you could run this stuff up at home, after all. A typical degustation includes both classic haute cuisine staples like oysters and foie gras and not-so-standard ones like sheep’s cheese custard and sea buckthorn, all combined with real imagination and to great effect. And speaking of effect, there’s usually a bit of theatre involved, too – presentation might include something David Blayne-ish with dry-ice, burning grass or live charcoal.
What to drink Staff will advise on wine pairings, which complement the complexities of each dish and though the wine list isn’t vast, it is very well considered.
Top table Equal opportunity
Who to bring Someone important
Don’t leave without Sampling the Milk, celery, dill, cucumber, fennel and pollen madeleines. And the rye ice cream.
In the Know Book well in advance. Saturday nights need at least a month’s lead time.
What’s the cost The weekend five-course tasting menu is actually good value at €75, all things considered. The rest of the week there’s a streamlined three-course version for €60, which is also an excellent introduction to the Greenhouse oeuvre.