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Shear Potential: Irish wool’s revival and the women leading the charge
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Galway Wool Co-Op

Shear Potential: Irish wool’s revival and the women leading the charge


by Rhianne Kelly
17th Mar 2025

Not all wool is created equal—nor is all "Irish" knitwear truly Irish.

On a summer morning at the Athenry livestock mart in 2024, an unlikely fusion of industry and artistry took place. Bales of freshly shorn fleece shared the floor with pieces of contemporary fibre art. As sheep farmers piled sacks of wool ready for sale, just steps away local artisans showcased intricate knitwear, handwoven textiles, and felted sculptures – all made from the very same native Irish wool.

The Land to the Hand exhibition was a bold statement: Irish wool, long dismissed as too coarse, too impractical, too unworkable, had found its champions. Now, that movement is gaining traction. A determined cohort of wool growers, artisans, and business minds are proving that native wool can be commercially viable once more, while offering a more sustainable alternative to imported materials.

The real issue is not the wool itself. It's the loss of the traditional knowledge in how to work with it.

At the forefront of this push is the Galway Wool Co-Op, a farmer-led initiative working to re-establish a market for high-quality, traceable Irish wool, and the Galway Artisans Collective, a network of designers and craftspeople proving that Irish wool has a future in contemporary fashion. Working exclusively with Galway sheep—the only native Irish breed—their mission is clear: restore the economic and cultural value of Irish wool while holding the industry accountable for misleading branding practices.

“If you’re going to go down the green route, go down there with honesty,” says Blátnaid Gallagher, founder of the Galway Wool Co-Op.

Reclaiming wool’s worth

For decades, Irish wool has been undervalued—discarded as waste or sold for pennies. “The challenge for 99% of farmers in Ireland is that the cost to shear a sheep far exceeds the price paid for the wool,” explains sheep farmer and Galway Wool Co-Op member, Gerard Warde.

While the wool from native Galway sheep is durable, insulating, and naturally weather resistant, it’s largely ignored by the fashion industry in favour of softer, imported Merino wool. The knock-on effect? Irish wool lost its place in the global textile economy, and farmers saw their profits evaporate.

The revival of Irish wool isn’t just about craft and heritage. It’s about economic empowerment, industry integrity, and building a market that values honesty as much as sustainability.

The loss wasn’t just economic—it came at an environmental cost, too. While Irish wool was discarded, global supply chains filled the gap. Wool imported from as far as Australia or South America carries a high carbon footprint, transported thousands of miles while a fully renewable, biodegradable resource is left unused at home.

The Galway Wool Co-Op is changing that.

By offering direct partnerships between farmers and designers, they have increased the farm-gate price of Galway wool by over 1,000% in just a few years. What was once worth mere cents is now commanding fair prices, ensuring that farmers can once again earn meaningful revenue from their flocks.

The Galway Artisans Collective: Making Irish wool wearable again

If the Galway Wool Co-Op is providing the raw material, the Galway Artisans Collective is proving what can be done with it. At the heart of this revival is Michelle Hickey Legge, Artist-in-Residence at Galway Wool Co-Op and founder of the Collective. She was drawn into the wool movement in 2022 when she struggled to source genuine Irish wool for a rug project. That challenge led her to years of research into Ireland’s wool industry, and ultimately, to championing garments and crafts that showcase the true potential of Galway fleece.

One of the Collective’s most celebrated creations is the Báinín vest. Handmade and designed by Shannon Byrnes, the crochet garment is crafted from 100% worsted Galway wool. Aptly known as ‘Báinín’ or ‘lovely white’ (a nod to its naturally pure, fleck-free complexion), the vest is a symbol of both heritage and innovation: a modern staple built on centuries-old tradition.

“There’s no bleach or dye. There’s no chemicals. If we buried it into the ground right now, it would be gone within six months,” Michelle explains.

For years, Irish wool has been deemed too rough for fashion, but both Michelle and Blátnaid argue that this perception is outdated. “Galway wool was used once upon a time in our suiting, in our outerwear, in our tweeds. That’s proof that it’s more than capable of serving the fashion industry of today,” Michelle explains. “The real issue is not the wool itself. It’s the loss of the traditional knowledge in how to work with it.”

With the right processing methods, both women assert, Irish wool can be just as suitable for apparel as any imported alternative. “I feel like a queen in Irish wool,” Michelle says, “because I’m walking around in a piece of our heritage, a piece of our history.”

The issue with ‘Irish’ wool branding

Despite these advancements, there remains a widespread perception that a label reading “made in Ireland” guarantees the use of Irish wool. In reality, a significant portion of so-called ‘Irish’ yarn is made using imported fibres, often from Australia, South Africa, or South America. Blátnaid wants to see more transparency in the industry. “I no longer want to be told that this is Irish wool when it isn’t,” she says. “I want to see the farmer and I want to see a smile on his or her face because they’ve been rewarded for their hard work.”

As the seanfhocal goes: “An rud is annamh is iontach”—what’s rare is wonderful. Irish wool? It’s both.

She’s also passionate about consumer education, believing that buyers deserve real choice. “The consumer isn’t being made aware. That includes the sustainable consumer who wants to spend a few hundred euros on a garment that’s going to last a lifetime. They often don’t even know where that wool grew.”

A turning point for the industry

Change is on the horizon. By 2030, all products sold in the EU will require a Digital Product Passport (DPP): a scannable label that reveals exactly where a product’s materials come from. For Irish wool, this could be a long-overdue moment of clarity, giving consumers the power to distinguish between genuine Irish wool and products that only claim to be.

Once transparency becomes mandatory, brands and suppliers that rely on imported fibres while marketing themselves as ‘authentic’ may have to rethink their approach. But the women of the Galway Wool Co-Op and Galway Artisans Collective aren’t waiting for regulation to catch up—they’re already setting the standard for what real Irish wool can be.

As Blátnaid puts it, “If you have Irish wool in your offering, be brave. Show us the farmer, show us the farm-gate price, stick to the real ethos and the real principle of sustainability.” The revival of Irish wool isn’t just about craft and heritage. It’s about economic empowerment, industry integrity, and building a market that values honesty as much as sustainability.

As the seanfhocal goes: “An rud is annamh is iontach”—what’s rare is wonderful.

Irish wool? It’s both.

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