Whether you want to whisk yourself off on a pre-Christmas getaway, or are planning on giving a loved one the gift of a staycation — I cannot recommend a weekend in Belfast enough.
Don’t get me wrong, a weekend away with your other half is one of life’s greatest pleasures. It’s romantic and elegant and exists in its own little bubble of love and merriment. A trip away with family is just as joyous, and leaves you feeling extremely wholesome. But nothing quite compares to the excitement surrounding a girls’ trip.
It just has an air of cosmopolitan divilment to it that defies explanation. Yes, we may be embarking on a long, stuffy bus journey, but we’ve attached such a sense of adventure to the expedition that we may as well be setting off on a round the world trip. The five hours spent in transit could very well have cast a shadow of agitation over our arrival, but Belfast city was positively radiating Christmas spirit, so we got right down to business and began exploring…
Day One
Where to stay…
On night one, we stayed at the Bullitt Hotel, which is just about as central as you can get. The whole place has a really laid back atmosphere, the rooms are clean and comfortable, and the staff are extremely accommodating. They’ve got a ‘no-nonsense philosophy’, so the rooms are equipped with all the essentials (hello, rainfall shower) and none of the faff that usually distracts you from actually leaving the room and getting to grips with the city itself.
From the courtyard outside to the interior lobby, adjoining bar and two in-house restaurants, it was clear that the Bullitt is a spot favoured by locals, as well as visitors to the city. There was a real thrum of activity from the minute we checked in to the moment we scarpered back upstairs later that night.
What to do…
Having dropped our bags and freshened up, we dipped straight out and across to the Belfast Christmas Market. Open for its 18th year at Belfast City Hall, the stalls and chalets offered a mix of handcrafted goods and bespoke artisan products, and I’m not exaggerating when I say that a whole afternoon could be lost browsing through what’s on offer.
Irish fudge in every flavour, massive vats of paella, a van selling mac and cheese in just about every iteration imaginable — it took every bit of inner strength we could muster not to allow our eyes to be bigger than our bellies. We did, however, dip our toe into festive cheer with some churros, a Christmas essential best topped with sugar and cinnamon.
Naturally, we needed to wash the churros down somehow, so we made our way to Commercial Court — one of the most photographed streets in Europe. You know the one, laden down with neon umbrellas, complete with a sign listing off the types of rain in Belfast. The courtyard and adjoining streets lived up to expectations, and a quick drink in The Duke of York was the cherry on top. There isn’t an inch of wall or ceiling without some Belfast pub memorabilia attached, so there’s a lot to look at while you sip.
Where to eat…
At the Bullitt Hotel, there are two in-house restaurants; Tetto, a rooftop seafood restaurant with an Italian focus, and Taylor and Clay. We opted for the latter, which is an award-winning eatery with an emphasis on grilling. The whole kitchen is built around a bespoke Asador wood-fired grill, so everything on the menu has whispers of that flame grilled effect somewhere on the plate.
For mains, we opted for the chicken supreme and hazelnut and lentil wellington, but it was the starters that really sang. Chicken liver parfait, tiger prawns with flatbread, the most incredible ham hock fritter with apple purée and pickles… every mouthful was divine. I would go so far as to say, if you’re dining with two or more guests, forego the mains and order all the starters and sides and spend a while over your plates, tapas style.
Our food was some of the best I’ve eaten in some time, and the wine was incredible — and affordable. But it was our waiter, Pedro, who made the experience at Taylor and Clay what it was. Just the right amount of attentive, he talked us through all our options, gave very, very sound recommendations, and made us feel totally relaxed. Tens all ‘round.
Where to drink…
For after dinner cocktails, Rattlebag ticked absolutely every box. We poured over the menus by lamplight, sinking into the couch cushions and soaking up the ambiance. The menu itself is divided up between Rattlebag classics and seasonal specials, and each listing has a photo, illustration, and a flavour key so you know exactly what you’re getting yourself into.
From the music to the lighting, it’s the kind of place you really don’t want to leave in a hurry — and a spot absolutely made for date nights and special occasions. The intention with the list, we’re told, is that each mixed drink is crafted to be potent but palatable, and everything save the spirits is made in house. Making it an experience, you’re given some water relief to sip at as you imbibe, so that you can savour every moment.
Day Two
Where to stay…
While the Bullitt Hotel offered affordable comfort in a trendy setting, The Merchant Hotel was absolute luxury. Think incredible five-star service, plush king size beds, and a regal elegance that will make you wish you brought a ballgown. Set in a listed building, there’s a sense of history and heritage to the Merchant, but with all the modern conveniences and central setting you want from a weekend away.
We stayed in an Art Deco bedroom, which was pure decadence. From the rainfall shower and standalone bath to the Hollywood vanity set up, fur headboard, and views stretching over the city, stepping into that room was genuinely breathtaking. Though we didn’t have time to check them out, there’s also an onsite spa and gym that sound incredibly luxurious.
What to do…
Though the temptation to don our hotel robes and slippers and spend the day on either side of that mammoth bed was almost too much to resist, we put our best foot forward and stepped out into the buzz of the city streets. The first item on our agenda was St George’s Market, one of the city’s oldest attractions dating back to 1604. From fresh produce to handmade crafts, the vast Victorian building has space for you to roam and browse to your heart’s content. Top tip: Go early to avoid disappointment.
After a quick stop off at Established Coffee for some seasonally appropriate dirty chai lattes, it was time for our tour at Out of Office Brewery, which wound up being a real highlight of our trip. Located on the second floor of the Ulster Sports Club, head brewer Katie talked us through the entire process, and explained how certain flavours profiles are achieved, and dispelled some myths about craft beer that would leave hipster gatekeepers quaking in their loafers.
We sampled the Pencil Pusher session IPA, their cherry and rose petal sour named after Kelly from Marketing and their Dark Mode craft stout. If you didn’t already pick up on it, there’s a definite theme across the entire brand, and from the brewery to the tap room, the sense of humour is apparent.
However, I really do mean it when I say that the tour has made me incorrigible. I won’t ever be able to not show off about just how much I know about craft beer from here on out. Did you know that you can’t sip it, you have to gulp it? Because the bitter taste receptors are on the tip of your tongue? No, I didn’t think so.
Where to eat…
We enjoyed dinner at Bert’s Jazz Bar, which just so happens to be Belfast’s only dedicated jazz bar. Set against, as you would expect, a melodic soundtrack of live jazz seven days a week, sitting in a booth at Bert’s is a level of sophistication that I imagine to be something akin to a New York members only jazz club in the winter.
The drinks selection is extensive, and the food at this 1 AA Rosette restaurant showcases a French bistro style menu that changes regularly to reflect the best of each season. With festive aperitifs and bar snacks to keep the wolf from the door while you wait, the highlight of the meal was undoubtedly the sticky toffee baked alaska, served with butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream.
Where to drink…
Again, after dinner cocktails were high on the agenda — though were we wearing jeans, the top buttons would most definitely be open by this point. We waited for our table in The Cocktail Bar to open up in The Great Room, which is hands down one of the most stunning spaces I’ve had the pleasure of sitting in. Original Victorian interior, there is a glass cupola and a truly remarkable chandelier. It’s also where breakfast is served and where we absolutely misread the vibe by padding down in our robes and slippers while our fellow guests looked much more put together.
The Cocktail Bar itself is no less gorgeous, also boasting many wonderful original architectural features. Antique Baccarat chandeliers and a stunning antique fire complement the design, and the drinks menu had just about every flavour and spirit imaginable. There was also a complimentary gin-based drink to sip on while you browse the menu, which was a very nice touch.
Honourable mention must also be given to The Thirsty Goat, where we got a hot whiskey and were quickly sent into a frenzy of Christmas festivity with live music and a ski chalet-esque interior that we thoroughly enjoyed. The Ulster Sports Club was recommended to us by pretty much everyone we asked, and it’s no secret why. The bar downstairs has cosy corners, the beer garden has murals and energy, and the top floor has live DJs. On the night in question, we ended up seeing Yung Singhe & Surusinghe courtesy of Inside Moves, which was an unbelievable way to cap off a whirlwind weekend.
Sarah Gill was a guest of The Bullitt Hotel and The Merchant Hotel.
The Luxury for Sale package at The Merchant is amazing and offers overnight stay packages starting from £128pps, available from January to March 2024.
The #LivinItUp package at The Bullitt starts from £174, and includes a two course dinner in Tetto, Bullitt’s stunning rooftop restaurant, available Wednesday-Friday from January-April 2024.
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