Deserved of every accolade, compliment and positive review it's received, Ballymaloe House Hotel is one of those rare places that not only lives up to expectations, but exceeds them.
“I feel very at peace,” my sister sighed as we departed Ballymaloe House Hotel – a fitting summary of what had been the most restful weekend I’d had all year. “In another life, we would have been very good posh people,” she mused, clearly a fan of being waited on hand and foot. I fear our stay may have ruined all other hotels for us.
Arriving in Shanagarry on a sun-drenched Friday afternoon, we weren’t quite sure what to expect. That said, as longtime admirers of the Allen family—my dad and sister were devoted viewers of Rachel Allen’s cooking show—we suspected we were in for a treat. Turns out, even that was an understatement.
First impressions aren’t everything but they certainly work in Ballymaloe’s favour. A winding (albeit slightly potholed) drive leads up to the front of the property which, cloaked in ivy and dappled with the last of the evening light, elicited audible ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ from my sister and me. We may not be the toughest crowd but I suspect even those immune to rural Irish charm would find themselves disarmed by the peaceful setting.
Impressive as the exterior is, the inside is even more so. Immediately inviting, the decor is traditional yet modern, perfecting the balance between new and old while staying true to the property’s storied past. To the left-hand side, is the drawing room; a space in which guests congregate for tea and cake between 3 to 5pm or pre-dinner cocktails once night falls. Originally a castle of the Imokilly Geraldines, the property was bought by Myrtle and Ivan Allen in 1948, and though it’s gone through many iterations since then, it still maintains that same sense of otherworldly magic – if you think I’m being hyperbolic, a man (one of the Allen brothers, I later learned) sat in the foyer, gently strumming a mandolin as we checked in. The whole thing felt straight out of a fairytale.
When it comes to hotel rooms, I’ve become picky in my old age. Pet peeves include (but are not limited to): a lack of easily reachable plugs, no bathroom real estate (by which I mean shelving on which to arrange skincare, makeup and other such products), an abundance of cushions, high-tech domotics which make it impossible to regulate the temperature or figure out the lighting system (how is it that, come bedtime, the switches only seem to turn more lights on?), byzantine shower knobs, and no dedicated place to hang wet towels. Ballymaloe gracefully sidestepped each bugaboo, and our room—The Ivy Suite—featured a conservatory with seating area, a private dressing room with vanity, a king-sized bed (a highlight), and a bathroom with a bath, shower and heated drying rack (not to mention two sinks and ample counter space).
Dinner—a five-course seasonal menu built around farm-to-table principles—was booked in for 7:30pm leaving us just enough time to freshen up and enjoy a spicy margarita from the bar. That which isn’t from Ballymaloe’s own walled garden is sourced from their organic farm and local producers and fishmongers. On Fridays, the offering includes a special hors d’oeuvres buffet with all manner of delicious seafood specialties from lobster on homemade brown bread to oysters with mignonette, mussels, clams and catch of the day. As a seafood lover, I was in heaven and even my (at times picky) sister branched out and tried a bit of everything. The accompanying bread basket went down a treat too – I don’t know what they put in their butter but it’s the best I’ve ever had. Seriously, I would have eaten it with a spoon if it was socially acceptable to.
For mains, I had the John Dory while my sister opted for steak – both were delicious and went beautifully with a side of colcannon. Cheese and biscuits were next, which I highly recommend if you have the room, and then the dessert trolley arrived to send us off to Food Coma Land. Samples of sorbet, rhubarb crumble and seaweed mousse (surprisingly delicious topped with brown sugar and cream) were all sampled before we finally admitted defeat and waddled off to bed. Right on the precipice of Christmas dinner full, we slept like queens that night.
The next morning, I wasn’t sure how we’d manage to squeeze more food in but somehow we managed and between freshly baked (still warm) scones, yoghurt, granola and spinach and mushroom omelettes, we made sure we were well fuelled for the day ahead. If you’re there on a Tuesday or Saturday, make sure to join Fern Allen’s morning tour of the grounds. It starts in the foyer at 10:30am and over the course of an hour, she takes you through the house, giving you a bit of history about the place as well as some background on her parents’ vision for Ballymaloe. The famous cookery school is just a short drive away guests can walk around the gardens for free (just ask for a sticker from reception before heading over). Day two of our stay was decidedly less sunshiney than the first so learn from our mistake and pack wellies in case the weather turns! Go for the piglets, stay for a cup of tea and pastry from the gift shop. And don’t leave before a visit to the shell house, a gift from Darina to her husband on their wedding anniversary.
We were slightly too late to make it to Midleton market (which runs on Saturdays from 9am to 1pm), so instead, we made a pit stop at a nearby Shanagarry pottery shop for a browse. There’s also a Kilkenny Shop in the area if you’re in need of souvenirs and of course, the Ballymaloe shop which has everything from Aran jumpers to cooking utensils and their beloved relish. On the recommendation of not one, but two different people, we went into Ballycotton for dinner that evening. The Trawler Boyz food truck, out the back of the Blackbird bar, really lives up to the hype – portions are huge, tasty and go great with a pint! There’s usually live music at the weekend and most patrons seemed to be locals, which is the true marking of a hidden gem if you ask me. Taxi service is hit or miss but you can organise one directly with reception, just make sure to have cash handy.
Another night’s sleep in the world’s comfiest bed and we essentially floated out the doors on cloud 9. At breakfast the next morning, one staff member commented that we looked “exceptionally well”. I put that down to being well rested and well fed, the latter of which Ballymaloe are expert on. Truly one of the most special places I’ve ever stayed, I’d spend every weekend at Ballymaloe if I could.
Sarah Finnan was a guest of Ballymaloe House Hotel. A midweek stay with breakfast starts at €395. Find out more information here.
