Alan Andrews of The Old Barracks Coffee Roasters and Guji Coffee Bars on his life in coffee

When it comes to Irish coffee culture, Alan Andrews is a man thoroughly in the know. Owner at The Old Barracks Coffee Roasters and GUJI Coffee Bars, his passion for the craft is immediately evident. Having worked in the coffee industry for closer to 20 years now, he’s amassed quite the wealth of experience. Here, he shares his story so far…

What are your earliest memories of coffee?

My first memory of drinking a coffee was when my cousin Janet invited me for a cappuccino in the arcade on Talbot Street, Dublin. I was around 18. It was 30 years ago.

Since then I have many memories — watching the sunrise at El Paraiso in Honduras at 5 am in 2013 surrounded by aromas of coffee cherries, lemon and yasmin. It was my first visit to a coffee farm. To the amazing flavours of blueberries that filled my senses from the GUJI bean varietal, when we bought our first natural Ethiopian coffees for the launch of our first GUJI Coffee Bar in 2019.

How would you describe your relationship with coffee?

Complex! I love business and I love coffee, coffee is so difficult to perfect every time. It’s almost impossible, and it seems like a bottomless pit of learning. I feel like we are only getting started, yet I am nearly 20 years working with coffee.

What was the most unique coffee you have tasted?

Cold Brew Jamaican Blue Mountain, made by a friend of mine Sebastien Becker from Heidelberg, Germany. We met at World of Coffee, Rimini Italy, 2014 and Sebastien had a fridge full of cold brew bottles made from Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee and we shared one over breakfast. It was mouthwatering, delicate and sweet. An amazing experience for me.

How did coffee become a part of your career?

I went through a separation in 2009 and was made redundant the same month. I needed to find a way to make sure I had time with my kids and make some money. I took a small A5 notebook and across two pages I wrote what my personal / family needs were on one side and I wrote my skillset/what I enjoyed on the other page. From there, I started a coffee education business in 2009 and worked as a sole trader until 2018. I now employ over 40 people.

What’s your go-to coffee?

A flat white with either a washed coffee (currently drinking El Guaca from Costa Rica) or with an Ethiopian GUJI bean.

If you’re impressing friends and family at breakfast, what coffee are you serving up?

From the selection at our Roastery in Birdhill, I would serve Honduras Finca El Puente. This coffee is full of milk chocolate and hazelnuts with a little raspberry acidity at the end. It is delicious and a real crowd-pleaser.

Who is your coffee inspiration?

I think we are all inspired by different people along our journey. My greatest inspiration in the past five years has come in equal parts from my children and my partner. My children, Sirin and Calum have seen the business grow, from packing bags in the garage to now running four properties. My partner Siobhan, while she runs her own women’s boutique in Newcastle West, has encouraged and supported me to take on opportunities and that support is immeasurable. If only she would come and work with me!

What’s your go-to party coffee drink?

Rum mochas – so simple – chocolate, coffee, and rum. What’s not to like?

Where is your go-to grab-and-go cuppa when you’re on the road?

I often take the train, and in Limerick, there is a coffee shop called Caffe Waffe on Mallow Street. Karol the owner starts at 3 am to hand-make all of his pastries. The shop opens at 7, so I often stop there to grab a coffee (roasted by us of course) to go and one of his famous cinnamon buns. He is a master at his trade.

Hangover cure?

The Breakfast Sandwich from Rift Larder on Mallow Street, Limerick is fabulous. Local sausage and bacon meats from Crowes, Croom eggs, caramelised onion and a novak bun. Add the smoked mayo, you won’t regret it.

Go for a stroll after, inhale the fresh air of the Shannon and grab a coffee in GUJI Coffee Bar on O’Connell Street. Best. Cure. Ever.

Sweet or savoury?

I have a sweet tooth, predominantly limited to chocolate and or chocolate biscuits with my cuppa tea every night.

Sit in? Or coffee to go?

If it’s a work day, I love to sit in a cafe and work, that white noise in the background helps me focus. I also prefer coffee from a ceramic cup, and although I tend to carry an actual cup around, it’s not always feasible. So I like to sit in as much as possible.

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

The French Table, at Steamboat Quay Limerick. Classic French food without the arrogant French vibes. Lots of house-cured meats, menus are always seasonal and service is always professional. Late lunch on Sunday is my favourite time to go.

Best coffee in Ireland?

For a neighbourhood experience, and quality in the cup without compromise, visit the new Roasted Brown Roastery in Kilcoole, County Wicklow.

What are your thoughts on the Irish coffee scene?

There is some terrible price gouging. Quick serve, pour your own machines are charging extortionate prices for really poor quality coffee. And this needs to be challenged. The quality will never be there to justify charging any more than €2 a cup in these settings.

What’s your favourite thing about the coffee business?

I love the sense of community that coffee shops provide. Coffee shops are that third space away from work and home that we need when we want to have that serious chat or just to catch up.

On a personal level, the coffee business has given me so much freedom of expression, an income, opportunities to meet so many people and opportunities to nurture and engender passion in our team and our wholesale customers.

What does going for coffee — sitting down with friends, mindfully taking time out — mean to you?

I think we totally underestimate how important taking some me-time is. At our roastery in Birdhill we have created an adults-only venue for this exact reason. As adults, we are constantly prioritising others, and it is super important to take some time out, away from everything and either sit on our own, mindfully with a cup or meet a friend(s) and have some real quality time together.

Is there room for improvement within the Irish coffee hospitality scene?

There is always room for improvement. I feel there were lots of entrants into the coffee space during COVID-19 and unfortunately, many of these offerings were cheap and based on opportunity rather than a real interest in creating great coffee experiences. Customers are more educated now, and really good coffee is still hard to find. Price gouging is happening all over the country but the really good quality offerings will always come out on top. Some coffee offerings really need to up their game and deliver great quality, as customers will vote with their feet.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

Paladar in Cork city is well worth a visit, Latin American-inspired cocktail bar and kitchen. Awesome cocktails, small plates and tapas-style food, for sharing or keeping.

Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

Gotta give a shout out to Daniel Horbat, from Sumo Coffee Roasters, he’s a World Champion Barista, the only world champion Ireland has produced in the last ten years in any category. World Cup Tasters Champion 2019. Follow him and watch his journey.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the coffee shop experience?

It’s a question of commitment. Commitment to quality produce, commitment to consistency in drink quality and commitment to great customer service.

Featured image by Diarmuid Greene