All Together Now’s festival food coordinator Vanessa Clarke on her life in food

With over 15 years of experience in event management and a veritable expert in the curation of food offerings at many Irish events, Vanessa Clarke is a true aficionado of food. The creator of Electric Picnic’s Theatre of Food, Vanessa is also the woman behind All Together Now’s food policy and plastic bottle ban, she brings environmental awareness to the role, alongside a savvy strategy for event planning.

Here, she shares her life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

My grandfathe’s Sunday Roasts. The family sat at the dining table with a huge roast of beef with all the trimmings. I remember wishing I could fit more in; it was so delicious. I’ve never managed to cook a roast to his standards, possibly because nothing will ever taste as good as those memories.

How would you describe your relationship with food?

I love food; it’s my world. My career has been all about food, and I’m as passionate about a good cheese on toast as I am about a fine dining experience. Food has to be real for me; no processed fake foods. Less is more, and nothing beats good ingredients.

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

When I moved out of home, I learned to make Spaghetti Bolognese. It was my go-to for years, along with a roast chicken with trimmings. It felt like home from home in my various flats in London.

How did food become a part of your career?

When my first son was born, I was determined to feed him quality food, as I had been given. Living in Dublin, I didn’t have access to country produce on my doorstep or a polytunnel full of seasonal veg. Organic food was non-existent, and the food movement hadn’t started yet and outside West Cork good food pickings were slim, especially in Dublin. This is pre Fallon & Byrne or Donnybrook Fair. My solution was to open a shop selling everything I couldn’t buy locally. That was the beginning – a little food shop called The Good Food Store, just off Baggot Street.

What’s your go-to breakfast?

Eggs and wholemeal toast and fresh berries, or porridge with berries.

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

These days, it’s Mexican: Fish Tacos, squid with pineapple salsa, crab tostadas, tonnes of guacamole and mango salsa and some Mexican beer.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

I would have to say Ottolenghi and Madgur Jaffrey. Ottolenghi for his use of flavours and the simplicity of his dishes with the most amazing combinations and colours. Madhur Jaffrey for her wonderful take on Indian cuisine, especially her vegetarian dishes.

What would your last meal on earth be?

Gosh. That’s tricky. I think something Italian with lots of cheese, crunchy bread, rocket, and balsamic vinegar, followed by delicious fresh pasta and rounded off with a Tiramisu.

What’s your go-to comfort food?

Confit Duck with garlic & herb potatoes. It’s easy and delicious. French Duck confit from a jar served with small cubes of potato roasted in duck fat and garlic and tossed with flat leaf parsley.

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

Baked potato with tuna and cheese. Can’t beat it!

What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?

Anything pork-related. I draw the line at pork.

Hangover cure?

A great burger & milkshake, for sure. Nothing hits the spot like a juicy burger on those awful days after the night before, and there are times nothing soothes like a strawberry milkshake.

Sweet or savoury?

Savoury all the way. I do like a nice dessert but having to choose, definitely savoury.

Fine dining or pub grub?

Funnily enough, these days I’m really into pub grub. Great value, great portions, good carveries. The Merrion Inn is my current go-to on days I don’t want to cook.

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

Marconi Restaurant in Foyles Hotel, Clifden. Being there is always with family and food tastes way better after a bracing day in Clifden. I’ve never managed to be in Clifden on a sunny day, but the rain and mist are part of the charm.

Best coffee in Ireland?

Ariosa by a country mile. I drink decaf and nothing comes close to Michael’s blend.

Go-to beverage accompaniment?

Soda water and lime. Keep it simple. Good palate cleanser.

What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?

I think it’s bursting with talent and bravery but it’s a pity it’s so expensive to operate a food business here. It’s crazy. The food industry is a heavily regulated sector, where 90% of its staff have no formal training or desire to make it their career. Owners are running around trying to maintain standards at extremely high costs with transient staff who have very little investment. There are also too many restaurants now, so people will fall off the end of the latest trend.

People pour their heart and life savings into opening a place only to find out the hard way that years four and five are the killer years. It’s pretty thankless. Less restaurants, more government support, less hoops to jump through and maybe everyone could breathe a little and enjoy their chosen path. Hats off to anyone running a restaurant in this current climate.

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

Eating the food I’ve prepared just as I like it. Luckily, I love my own cooking, and I love to cook. Choosing the ingredients, nothing too complicated, all about flavour and freshness. I’m a Jamie Oliver sort of cook – bung it all in and let the ingredients do the hard work.

What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?

It’s part of life. It’s a time to come together and exhale and live exactly in the moment. Memories are made of moments around tables, whether it be a reason to celebrate or a Sunday lunch with friends & family – it’s priceless. Time to check back in and be with your people. We are what we eat so good food makes for happy moments. If someone else washes up, I’m happy to spend a day preparing a lovely meal. It’s relaxing and gives time to contemplate and be present.

Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

More support from the Government for food crusaders, less processed food out there in general and more growing our own produce in this country. We need more incentives to do that. Why are we importing apples and green beans from Kenya? It’s madness. Our Irish apple breeds are disappearing and we’re eating tasteless imported apples. Let’s get growing. Less lawns and more veg patches. Let’s start with schools; every school should have a fruit & veg growing space. We are losing part of ourselves by stripping the country of plants, not to mention losing the butterflies.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

Duck in the Four Seasons Chinese restaurant in Soho, London. The buzz, the delicious flavours, the busy street outside – all combine to make an ‘experience’. I’m all about the full experience. A great dining room, welcoming staff, great food. Less cold rooms with loud music and nonplussed staff, and more character and warmth in every sense. I’m showing my age here. If it’s too loud you’re too old… Maybe so but conversation is key over dinner!

Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

My mother deserves this. She learned to cook in France as a teenager, and that skill combined with a love of natural food has made her an exceptional cook. We hated it as kids as she wouldn’t allow any junk or processed foods. Everything was homemade and chemical and additive-free. But now I totally get it and appreciate it all. She was just way ahead of her time. We all thought she was nuts making kimchi and eating fermented foods and growing all of her own vegetables years ago. I wish she’d write a cookbook with all the tips on growing, baking and making, so the recipes will live on. The award goes to Orla Clarke.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect experience?

A good maitre d’ will make a restaurant. It’s so rare these days, but it’s key to success. Rosa Madre thrives because Luca is amazing. His guests are just that, guests -not unknown heads at a table. People want community and restaurants can be the heart of a community with good staff. Crudo in Sandymount is another example of great people making the experience all the more.

Festival food imagery by Stephen Golden