Here, we catch up with Drew Ishmael to chat about everything from his earliest memories of food to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Having grown up with two classically trained chefs for parents, Drew was immersed in the restaurant industry from the jump. Going on to train in culinary arts and open his own business—Imperfect Bakery—back in 2020, Drew is now the Head Baker at The Twelve Bakery in Barna, Co. Galway.
Here, Drew shares his life in food…
What are your earliest memories of food?
I grew up in restaurants, so it would have to be at the first Scotty’s on Middle Street. Some of my earliest memories in general were in that building.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
Lifelong.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
I would imagine something in the breakfast realm, probably French toast.
How did food become a part of your career?
Both of my parents are classically trained chefs so it was always a big part of my life. I also found it very hard to focus when it came to school, so working with my hands and being creative seemed a much more natural fit.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
A cup of tea and two bananas on the drive to work, or else some overnight oats.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
Bone-in ribeye with all the trimmings, seared with a nice crust, cooked to a perfect medium rare and rested for 20 minutes. That usually does it.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
I hate to fall into the cliché, but reading my dad’s copy of Kitchen Confidential was a big catalyst when I was younger, so I would have to say Bourdain got me into the professional kitchen, and Christina Tosi initially spurred my interest in baking.
What would your last meal on earth be?
That’s a tough one. I’d have to say a Smasher from Scottys, Kraft Mac & Cheese, some steamed greens with butter and a handful of waffle fries with garlic mayo. I’d wash that down with a glass bottle of San Pellegrino, a strawberry milkshake, and a very cold can of Coke Zero. Then for dessert, I would have tiramisu and an espresso. Followed by a little treat of course.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Peanut butter and banana on either buttered toast or a buttered bagel.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
That would have to be a bowl of cereal.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
I could definitely go through life happily without ever tasting coriander again, especially as a garnish on dishes it has no place.
Hangover cure?
Being five years sober will do the trick.
Sweet or savoury?
Definitely depends on the occasion, but I would have go with sweet.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Fine dining.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
Lignum – the food, the staff, the setting.
Best coffee in Ireland?
Kindf_olk on Middle Street in Galway is my favourite spot to go.
Go-to beverage accompaniment?
I think that would have to be a Palmier, they have all the right elements I’d be seeking in a pastry. Buttery, caramelised and flaky. So good.
What are your thoughts on the Irish food scene?
I feel the Irish food scene was on the up and up for the longest time and it still is, but I just feel there is also a lot of repetition amongst restaurants in this country. Something becomes popular and then boom, there are six places in your city doing it straight away. I’d love to shift our focus back towards the food and away from the fads.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
It can teach you something new and humble you every day.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal,
nourishment, etc — mean to you?
I find that cooking at home is a good way to decompress. I am happy in the kitchen, but sometimes the stresses of what you’re doing can diminish that in a working environment. But at home, it’s just you, your food and your music.
Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
There is always room for improvement in all facets of life.
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
Although already mentioned, the last meal I ate in Lignum I felt was of two star quality. Michelin will really be doing them a disservice if they don’t give them a star this year. In my opinion anyway.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
My friend and former chef, Paddy Philips is one of the most talented men I have had the pleasure of working in a kitchen with. He is doing incredible things down in Wa with the Omakase and constantly finding ways to challenge himself to bring the most authentic Japanese experience to Galway. Plus, a very honourable mention to my former Pastry Queens in Kai – Niamh, Molly and Te-Te.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
The service, I feel, will always make or break a meal. We’ve all eaten bad food in good company and it didn’t matter that the food was bad. But the service you receive will always be remembered.
Also Read
