Chef, broadcaster, and owner of ‘And Chips’ Eunice Power on her life in food

A woman with well over 20 years of experience in the food industry, Eunice Power first launched her gourmet catering company in 1991, bringing her creative genius into unusual spaces from castles to arenas with incredible clients.

Having since moved away from catering to focus on being the creative director of inspiring projects and events, Eunice is the owner of And Chips — a gourmet chipper that won Ireland’s Best Takeaway in 2023 — in Dungarvan, Co. Waterford.

A firm believer that the devil’s in the details, Eunice’s love of food is evident in every facet of her busy life. An entrepreneur, TV chef, food writer, tutor, passionate promoter of food tourism, and the Director of West Waterford Festival of Food, this is one woman who *literally* eats, sleeps and breathes good food.

Here, we chat to her about her life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

I grew up on a dairy farm, one of my earliest memories is my dad bringing a big bucket of creamy milk into the kitchen from the milking parlour.

How would you describe your relationship with food?

It’s a love affair! The gift that keeps on giving. I am an incredibly curious person – there are so many different angles and ways to look at food apart from taste, flavour and visual – there are the cultural, religious, provenance, sustainability, treatment of food from raw, cooked, cured. I am also incredibly grateful to have a career in food.

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

I was the master of hard boiled eggs from a young age. Egg mayonnaise on brown bread was a favourite at tea time in our house.

How did food become a part of your career?

My relationship with food and hospitality is in my hard wiring. I am one of those fortunate people who followed a path working with something I love and am constantly intrigued by. My business and brand grew organically from my inherent passion.

What’s your go-to breakfast?

My go to breakfast is a Flahavan’s organic porridge made with water and a pinch of sea salt. It keeps me going all day!

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

How and what I cook is really dependent on the season or what food avenue I am exploring . For example I went to Beirut a few years ago and for months afterwards I was pushing the boundaries on Lebanese food. On the other hand, in winter, I love nothing better than to cook a big roast on Sundays with about six veggie dishes from sweet and sour red cabbage to creamy gratins and crispy roast potatoes.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

I absolutely love Diane Henry’s style of writing and recipes. She manages to capture great flavours using everyday ingredients. Her writing gives me great food for thought.

What would your last meal on earth be?

My last meal on earth would be Dun Bakery sourdough toast, toasted on the AGA and slathered with butter and home made marmalade – I’m a simple girl at heart.

What’s your go-to comfort food?

My go to comfort food is buttery scrambled eggs on toasted sourdough.

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

The above!

What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?

I took a turn against Wasabi during one of my pregnancies and I have not been able to repair the relationship since.

Hangover cure?

My hangover cure is Elderflower cordial. I have no idea how this came about but it’s my go-to! I am busy harvesting elderflowers at the moment to have a supply at hand!

Sweet or savoury?

I have an incredibly sweet tooth. I absolutely love chocolate and always have a stack in the fridge.

Fine dining or pub grub?

Somewhere in between smart casual. I am not a fan of eating at small bar tables and on the other hand fine dining is a very occasional treat, bi-monthly as opposed to weekly.

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

I absolutely love the Beach House in Tramore. I love everything about it, the scenic journey from Dungarvan to Tramore along the coast road, the very cool interior with crittall doors leading into the garden and then there is the delicious food cooked exquisitely by Jumoke Akintola.

Best coffee in Ireland?

Let’s start with the best coffee in Dungarvan! We are spoilt for choice. My go-to is Roasted Brown served in Cass and Co and a close second is 3FE from Dun Bakey. I buy Mahers Italian coffee beans from Wine Buff in Dungarvan.

Go-to beverage accompaniment?

Without hesitation, roast salted Valencia Almonds (available from Cass and Co in Dungarvan.)

What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?

We are going through a transition in how we eat in Ireland. People are eating out much more than before, be it a sandwich at lunchtime or fish and chips beside the sea in the evening. The price of food and inputs has skyrocketed in the last few years, food is becoming much more expensive so I expect the customer will become much more judicious about where they spend their money. Decisions are not made solely on price but on the ethos of the restaurant and provenance of food.

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

I love to allow myself to become completely absorbed in the process of cooking: relax and enjoy it. My least favourite thing about cooking is shopping!!

What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?

I love having friends for dinner. I put thought into the table. I love a properly set table, gorgeous flowers, glasses and lots of food and variety. I am a feeder!

Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

Yes there absolutely is. My hobby horse is service standards which have gone through the floor. From my many observations, I have noticed that the personal comfort of service staff seems to far outweigh the attention given to the customer.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

I recently attended the Street Carnival in Clonakilty. The restaurants gathered and produced a late lunch for 600 people. The menu was fantastic, featuring all of the West Work Food Legends – Irish Yogurts Clonakilty, Skeaghanore Duck, West Cork Crab, Union Hall Mackerel, Clonakilty Irish Pudding. It was great to see the food community collaborating to bring a wonderful event such this together and so successfully.

Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

Paul and Maire Flynn’s Tannery Restaurant is part of our social tapestry here in Dungarvan. The food at the Tannery is exquisite, I feel so grateful to have it right on my doorstep.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

The company you are with. Food with friends.

Featured image via Joleen Cronin

This article was originally published in April 2023.