Conor Spacey shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Conor Spacey has been involved in the food industry for over 35 years and has always questioned the future of food and how we can feed the planet sustainably. During his years as a chef, Conor has always had a passion for local seasonal food – local, to Conor, being food that is grown, produced or farmed within 50 miles of his kitchens. His first book, Wasted, was published in July 2023 by Blasta Books. He is now putting pen to paper again on his second book, and is among the many incredible chefs making up the line-up of this year’s WellFest. Here, he shares his life in food.
What are your earliest memories of food?
My earliest memories of food are always at home, as a young child, helping my parents prepare lunch on Sunday (probably more of a hindrance), washing vegetables, peeling potatoes, mashing them (with copious amounts of butter) and always helping to make the gravy. It was also the smells you got as soon as you walked into the kitchen, there’s something about the smell of a traditional Sunday lunch that brings me back to my childhood.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
A rollercoaster. The more I investigate our global and local food systems, the more I change. When I think about what I eat now compared to what I even ate ten years ago, it’s totally different, and this is not based on diets or fads but more about understanding that as an eater, I can make changes that benefit me, but also the planet and people.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
It wasn’t so much a meal but more my first time cooking anything. I still laugh today thinking back about it. I found a recipe in one of my mother’s cookbooks for rock buns — and let’s just say the emphasis on my version is rock. It was a Saturday night and my parents were watching The Late Late Show with the legendary Gay Byrne presenting at the time. I wanted to surprise them and gathered together all the ingredients and made the buns. The funniest part was their expressions as they bit into them and were close to losing some teeth. They smiled and said “ohhh, they’re delicious.” I jumped up and said, “Great… I’ll make some more,” to which they were adamant: “No, no, no, it’s okay, we couldn’t possibly eat another one.” Good times.
How did food become your career?
I never planned on working with food and as a teenager, it was definitely something I had no interest in, but leaving school early and heading over to the UK with little to no money in my pocket meant that I needed to do something. After being turned down for many jobs I finally got into a hotel washing pots and was totally sucked into the world of organised chaos, adrenaline and creativity. That was it, there was no turning back and here I am, 36 years cooking and still learning and developing.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
Coffee! I can’t function until I’m at least into my third cup. Breakfast is very rarely around food for me, especially if I’m tasting dishes all day.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
Vegetables. I love to showcase entire vegetables that have been broken down into different parts and using different methods to create textures and flavours. Serving them family style with delicious wine so that everyone can tuck in and take as much as they want. There’s something about having people around a table eating like this that sparks great conversations, laughs and memories.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
There have been many over the years and they have changed as I have. It really depends on what area of the food system I’m working on at the time. In my earlier days, it would have been chefs that inspired me to cook in certain ways, that then changed to farmers and growers and people at the beginning of the chain, understanding what they do and the incredible hard work they do for us to have great ingredients.
What would your last meal on earth be?
I travel a lot and get to eat in some incredible places. At the moment, I’ve had fantastic street food on my trips and am definitely going with South American/Mexican tacos. When done right, there is nothing else like them that packs a punch and slaps your tastebuds in the face.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Hummus – a pot a day keeps the doctor away! I love it with sourdough, potato crisps, crackers… or pretty much anything.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
Noodles with kimchi and a fried crispy egg… I always have a jar of homemade kimchi on the go and this literally takes minutes to put together. It’s always comforting and delicious.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
Food that is too sweet, there is something so off-putting about cheap, sweet food that makes me feel sick.
Hangover cure?
Crispy fried egg on sourdough toast with chilli. It’ll wake you up and set you up for the day.
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury… always.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Pub grub.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
Too many favourite places to single one out, and it depends on where I am in the country. I have to say that the Irish food scene is definitely more exciting now than ever before.
Best coffee in Ireland?
Again, there are so many great roasters to choose from. When in Dublin it’s Cloud Picker, in the midlands it’s Bell Lane, and when I’m up in Donegal it’s into Foam in Bundoran, which has great guest coffees too.
What are your thoughts on the Irish food scene?
It’s definitely in a great place, there are excellent people in our industry who bring new and exciting flavours from their kitchens. As a nation, we are getting more and more diverse with so many nationalities now calling Ireland home. That has made us an exciting melting pot for food.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
It’s the freedom it brings, a chance to capture a specific time on a plate and even though I’ve been cooking professionally for over 35 years, I still get excited.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?
It’s all about connection. No matter who you are, where you’re from or even what kind of day you’ve had, when people sit around a table and share food, it’s a great experience.
Food for thought — What are some areas for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
I’m seeing more and more of the same things on menus throughout cities. We are losing our connection to the fantastic produce we grow in Ireland and it’s more about the same unsustainable ingredients on menus. You could eat across three different places in three days and find that you just ate the same things. More support is needed for smaller independent establishments that also showcase and support Irish farmers and have a lot more exciting food on their menus.
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
There are so many to choose from (which is a good complaint). To keep it to the most recent, I was in Galway two weeks ago for meetings and had a delicious dinner in Rúibín. They always have delicious seasonal ingredients, cooked with care and attention and great flavours.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
Again, keeping it recent, I’m just back from London and every time I’m there I always visit Popolo in Shoreditch. It’s very under the radar, but the food that Jon and his team produce is amazing. From the lightest handmade pastas to the flavours and care and attention that go into every dish, it’s a must-visit.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
Great ingredients, uncomplicated dishes, amazing flavours and fun company.
