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Chef James Gabriel Martin is trained in the culinary arts and is a photojournalist, art director, videographer, and musician. Through Leviathan Food, James and co-founder Ellen Martin develop recipes and host bespoke long-table dining experiences with Whitestown House in north Dublin. This spring, they’ll be releasing an original video series that will shine a spotlight on Ireland’s remarkable food, craft and music scene.
Leviathan, a nine-part travel and cooking series, celebrates the country’s vibrant creative culture, showcasing the stories of wild food foragers, artisan makers, organic farmers and musicians. It’s set to explore the deep connections between Ireland’s heritage, traditions and sustainability.
Eggs on toast, in whatever form. I love scrambled eggs on sourdough with some fresh-cut chives sprinkled over the top or a fried egg with some avocado, feta and chilli oil. My partner Lauren is from California and to see her respond to the incredible produce that we have here in Ireland brings me such joy. I am able to get farm fresh eggs, and of course, there is our butter and dairy. Breakfast has become a grounding, sacred ritual for us where we pause and appreciate the bounty before us and the roof over our heads before the busy day begins.
I love to make fresh pasta and it’s one of those things that never fails to make someone’s eyes light up. I was lucky to learn the ropes in the sensational Mamó Restaurant in my hometown of Howth. Head chef Killian Durkin is very knowledgeable. I think for technical things like pasta, where you need to get a feeling for the dough and for shaping the different pieces and for optimising cooking, repetition is key. So working in a restaurant setting like that is the perfect place to learn. I also like to take ingredients that we have here and add some basic elements to them, like Carlingford oysters with a simple mignonette dressing.
Saint Brigid. Did you know that she was able to turn water into beer? Aside from her, I am inspired by Sally Ferns-Barnes from Woodcock Smokery in West Cork. She has spent her life working exclusively with wild Irish fish, maintaining the tradition of curing with just salt and smoke, as well as campaigning for the clean-up of our Irish rivers and for ocean conservation. I met her in the first episode of my forthcoming video series and her passion for what she does was infectious.
Amaretto sour with some Jamón ibérico. Then some Moules-frites with a bottle of Albariño. A couple of pints of Guinness. Some Coolea mature cheese with some vermouth. Maybe some Al Pastor Tacos. Sticky toffee pudding and an americano, black.
A steaming bowl of the OG ramen from Nomo Ramen in Dublin. And their crispy mushroom karaage with a crisp, cold Japanese beer.
Most likely plain rice with some pan-fried fish and pickles. I have a rice cooker that I got in Japan which makes perfect fluffy rice every time with no effort. The other elements can be ready in a few short minutes.
Being creative and expressing myself with living colours and textures, profiles and techniques, to play with flavour and tailor an experience. Spending countless hours perfecting something, to nourish someone — and then, ultimately, our body breaks it down and dispels it as waste. It’s poetic.
Sitting down for a meal with friends or new acquaintances is one of my favourite things to do in this world. It offers the opportunity to bond and come together, to know each other a little better, or to simply unwind and be present. I think the dinner table facilitates this better than anywhere else.We drop our guards a little more. In terms of preparing a meal for someone, I think it’s an act of love. My father passed away three years ago and I wrote a piece on my website called, ‘To Love is to Nourish’, and it’s about the idea of food being able to express things that words sometimes can’t.
Yes, there is. I would like to see the government assisting independent businesses that are struggling. The fact that the VAT rate was not lowered to 9% in the last budget is disappointing. I am seeing restaurants closing every single day, only to be replaced by faceless, global brands that are harming our environment. If it continues, we will have no unique culture left. I would also like to see restaurants taking further steps to be eco-conscious and sustainable.
I went to Bar Pez in Dublin City recently and had an exceptional meal. The whole menu was very interesting and delicious and the staff were all a joy to deal with.
My culinary partner at Whitestown House, Kelly Keogh, along with her sister Aoife Keogh, who does the tablescaping and hosting, and their mother Hazel Keogh are all inspirations to me. Myself and Kelly became quick friends when we met in culinary school, and her rock-solid foundational knowledge of cookery is a thing to behold. Having a good team together in any venture is very important and it makes the process very enjoyable. I’m looking forward to seeing how things grow at Whitestown House, as the ladies there are beginning to host other interesting events like yoga retreats and wild foraging walks.
Great food that is consistent, as well as service that allows guests to be at total ease. There are many times when I have dined out and the food has been sensational, only for the service to let things down. We are pretty good overall in this country when it comes to service, there is an openness to Irish people which I think translates well to hospitality.
