Clair Dowling of Tiller + Grain on her life in food

A master of flavour and texture with a passion for seasonal local produce, Clair Dowling channelled her lifelong love of food into the opening of Tiller + Grain in 2019, a place where sustainability and nutrition are paramount.

Here, she shares her life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

Probably Sunday roast (beef and Bisto!) with my family – without fail, it would be there every Sunday.

How would you describe your relationship with food?

I have a huge belief in the power of food – for comfort; to make you feel nourished and healthy, to make you feel strong and excited and, in my opinion, privileged to be able to eat.

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

Pancakes with my dad – he was a big fan of almond essence in them – he thought he was a
gourmet chef with a twist! It was a competition between my brother, sister and I to see who could eat the most.

How did food become a part of your career?

I have always loved food and enjoyed cooking in my spare time. Then, when I was around 30 I lost my love of the corporate world I worked in. I felt I couldn’t do a job I didn’t believe in, so I gave it all up and re-trained as a chef. It was one of the craziest and most exciting things I did in my life – working as a chef in central London and going back to the beginning of a career slightly later in life – and I have never, EVER regretted it for one second!

Opening the doors to Tiller + Grain on South Frederick Street in 2019 was a continuation of this journey – of working with the two things I love – people and food. I am continuously grateful to create, work with like-minded people and serve our customers.

What’s your go-to breakfast?

Warm homemade croissants with Irish butter and homemade jams, and Greek yoghurt with homemade compote and granola. I would go for a salad and veg if it was on offer too… and some Irish cheese!

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

A Beetroot Farro “risotto”, seared or raw seasonal Irish veg, and slow-cooked lamb, or pan-fried fish of any kind – never underestimate the joy of food served with love, and care that is well cooked.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

Skye Gyngell of Spring restaurant, whom I trained under during my time in London. Her belief and use of local English produce was impressive. She worked and championed a single female farmer, Jane Scotter, in Fern Verrow, and brought her and her produce along on her successful journey. I truly believe that all female chefs and business owners can be successful by working together and creating something gorgeous and healthy from simple, local ingredients. I will never ever stop championing local Irish produce for these reasons.

Yotam Ottolenghi has also undoubtedly changed the face of food in the UK by bringing his Israeli heritage and home foods through to what they do every day across his many restaurants. I got to work in so many amazing kitchens in London and learned so much from all of them.

Also, my granny was some woman for one woman and ran her farm with my grandad in Cavan with serious passion, care and hard work. I stamped eggs there from a very early age – hence the use of the word Tiller, meaning to “till the land”, in the name of my café.

What would your last meal on earth be?

I am a big fan of communal, family-style food – dips, warm breads, well-seasoned grains, meats, fish, and cake – a serious amount of chocolate cake with mascarpone, Irish berries and cream. Basically, what we offer to our customers every day in Tiller + Grain!

What’s your go-to comfort food?

Chocolate – again – in any form. And, a Tangfantastic jelly. It’s a real guilty pleasure… with actually not that much guilt.

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

Eggs! An omelette with whatever veg I have leftover in the fridge, with a sprinkling of some aged parmesan.

What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?

Overly processed food, or food packaged as “healthy and fresh” that has clearly come from overseas; freeze-dried and pre-packaged but that insinuates that it’s healthy – lies basically! Also, fake butter or fake food – vegetables reconstituted into “meat-like” products – I think it’s a huge dis-service to the gorgeous vegetables that we have access to in their natural form.

Hangover cure?

I don’t drink, but if I’m particularly tired/grumpy I love a good ramen/broth. It feeds my soul that’s for sure. Or a pie… any kind, wrapped in homemade pastry is a winner for me!

Sweet or savoury?

It would have to be both. I have a massive sweet tooth so I really couldn’t choose!

Fine dining or pub grub?

Strong decent pub grub every day, but unfortunately, due to costs, these days it is hard to find.

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

Hands down, it has to be Saint Francis Provisions in Kinsale, Co. Cork. Owner, Barbara, and her team do a phenomenal job of preparing delicious fresh food with Irish ingredients and create a wonderful cosy ambience.

Best coffee in Ireland?

We use beans from Imbibe Coffee Roasters in Dublin. Not only does their coffee have a beautiful well-rounded flavour, their altruism doesn’t get enough airtime.

Go-to beverage accompaniment?

I know this is a very dull response, but water. Always water. Finished with coffee every time!

What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?

Strong and hopeful. Our industry has no doubt taken a hammering in the past few years. However, my concern is more for the farmers continuing to be able to provide us with sustainable (for them and for the local environment) produce for our talented chefs to be able to cook with. if we lose that part of Ireland, it will be a very, very sad day. And, they are already massively struggling to compete with cheap goods from overseas, which makes it harder for the food industry to choose to buy the better, more nutritious Irish equivalents.

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

I tend to get lost in it when I’m at home. Also, talking to people who have eaten what I have prepared and who are truly appreciative and inquisitive of the food. Honestly, it’s the part of the job I love; to share the education or introduce them to a new ingredient and to talk to them about the food.

What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?

Friendship, joy and banter.

Food for thought — is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

Yes, for sure. But I fully believe it comes down to cost and sustainability and what people will help support, because there is a lot of cheap food out there being wrapped up as something it is not and sold at a huge markup. It is hard for people doing the right thing – going about it the right way – to compete. We also need to get the government onside with helping the farming community and suppliers to make it more accessible to the chefs and consumers as a whole

Chef’s kiss — tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

Late last year I had the joy of going to Nepal. It never ceases to amaze me what company does for food. We sat in plastic chairs eating out of metal bowls, but after walking for hours in the rain/sun etc., it was just the most delicious thing. I think sometimes our basic need for food is forgotten because we live in such a privileged country. This is probably why food waste upsets me so much. Also, their use of spices was truly delicious in whatever format they came in.

Compliments to the chef — now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

My sister and my best friend. They are both mothers, and the effort they go to to teach their kids about food, to make healthy choices, and to give them a variety of foods is impressive and never-ending. It’s a thankless job trying to get a three-year-old to sit down and eat – a mother’s (and father’s) determination requires a patience I am not sure I would have myself. But education can start early, and at home.

Secret ingredient — what, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

Company; friends, family, kids, laughter, and memories. It’s what life is about – right?! And salt and lemon, I couldn’t live without them either!

Imagery via Kirsty Lyons