Claire Mac Evilly of Airfield Estate on her life in food

A public health nutritionist by background, for over 25 years, Claire has been working in the food sustainability field within the private and public sectors in the USA, UK and Ireland, and has been the CEO of Airfield Estate since 2022, working hard to preserve the long lasting legacy.

Claire is passionate about food and getting people to reconnect with where their food comes from. Prior to joining Airfield, she spent many years working for a range of diverse organisations including the British Nutrition Foundation, the University of Cambridge, UCD and global food multinational Danone.

Here, Claire Mac Evilly shares her life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

We moved to Philadelphia when I was very small, and I have memories of eating corn on the cob for the first time and I still love it today – fresh off the BBQ.

How would you describe your relationship with food?

I love my food! I am nutritionist but one who loves everything from high end restaurants to chipper chips. I love my food!

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

Spaghetti bolognese.

How did food become a part of your career?

My mum and nana were brilliant cooks. They were the perfect mix – mum was a public health doctor and nana was a Home Economics teacher so I got a great grounding in food. I went on to study Nutrition Science in UCC because of their influence. I then became really interested in communicating nutrition science and spent many years in roles talking to the public about food and health. I have now landed the dream job of CEO at Airfield Estate, Dublin’s sustainable food hub and a precious 38 acre green space beside Dundrum Shopping Centre, where we have the opportunity to really show people why they need to care about where their food comes from. We have so many touch points, like watching the cows being milked or the vegetables being picked that people rarely get to see these days.

What’s your go-to breakfast?

My first job was with Kelloggs and to this day I am a cereal queen. Special K is my favourite.

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

Lamb tagine and killer chocolate profiteroles. Choux pastry is my speciality.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

Darina Allen as the original advocate for food education and as a brilliant chef. I have some of her first books passed down to me by my mum.

What would your last meal on earth be?

Steak and chips with apple tart and cream for dessert.

What’s your go-to comfort food?

I keep it simple and quick – tea and toast with butter and jam. I have to give a shout out to the butter from our Jersey herd at Airfield Estate that we pasteurise on site.

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

Pasta, pesto, feta, chicken and leeks.

What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?

Paté – it’s the consistency that doesn’t agree with me.

Hangover cure?

Absolutely no food – a glass of water and a paracetamol.

Sweet or savoury?

Savoury.

Fine dining or pub grub?

Fine dining.

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

Chapter One – I have had some very special meals there and every time is memorable. The food, the service and of course, the Irish Coffee. I do wonder should I start with one of those first instead of an aperitif!

Best coffee in Ireland?

Blackrock Market in Cork for its coffee combined with the view over Cork harbour.

Go-to beverage accompaniment?

Cold glass of white wine.

What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?

It’s an interesting time in Ireland for us food lovers. While we still see new places opening up, sadly many are closing down. It is a tough sector to be in and I don’t think we give enough credit to how the scene is benefiting those of us who live here and visit our country. Given the climate conversation, there is more focus and pressure on what the sector is doing in the space and we need to be shouting louder about this. Food affects all of us and I truly believe places like Airfield Estate, that help people connect with food, are more important than ever.

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

It’s an art and a science. I think we underestimate the creativity of cooking. When it goes to plan, the plate can look like a renaissance painting.

What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?

Food is more than just nutrients; in my house it has brought us together for happy and sad times since I was small. Good food and good company go hand in hand.

Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

Better story telling particularly around the seasonality of food and where it comes from. There is a thirst for knowledge out there and those of us in this sector — whether you’re a farmer or a chef — have a real role to play in educating people about food, helping people respect it and creating that much needed connection.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

Terre in Castlemartyr – a very special night with old friends.

Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

I absolutely love Conor and Jutarat in Nightmarket in Ranelagh. I remember the first time I had green papaya salad many years ago in The Hauge of all places and when I eat it in the Nightmarket, I am taken right back.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

It’s the people, the staff who meet you on arrival, the waiter or waitress and then the chef and his team. If that team works, it’s a dream meal. Since working on an authentic farm to fork estate, I have a new appreciation of the value in that experience for people.