Dreaming of a trip to Bali? You need to add this luxurious clifftop spot to your list
By Gemma Tipton
02nd Jun 2024
02nd Jun 2024
Anantara Uluwatu
At the quieter, chic-er end of Bali, Uluwatu is fast becoming the destination of choice for those who like beautiful beaches, sublime surfing, excellent food, and unforgettable sunsets.
With more than 17,000 islands making up its idyllic horizons, Indonesia has been luring, seducing and generally beguiling travellers for hundreds of years. Back in the early days, those travellers were mainly pilgrims, and kings and their entourages. Today surfers and sightseers mingle with backpackers, beach lovers and honeymooners, and Bali is one of the most visited stops in all the archipelago. For some, Bali is where they will spend their entire Indonesian time, while others are coming hot from the jungle, dusty from the temple trail, or stopping in after sailing. However they arrive, all the best travellers know the value of the luxurious holiday stop.
This is the place where you splash out on bliss for a night or two, if not for the entire duration. At the quieter, chic-er end of Bali, away from the colourful chaos of Legian and its more aspirational sister, Seminyak; Uluwatu is fast becoming the destination of choice for those who like beautiful beaches, sublime surfing, excellent food, and unforgettable sunsets. Some choose Bali’s high end hotels for their wedding or the honeymoon aftermath, and others never travel anything less than five star, but yet more have discovered the warm welcome of no-holds-barred gorgeousness to round out, or take a cocooning break between adventures. Anantara Uluwatu offers all of these, and more.
The Impossible Wave
I arrived fresh from sailing, and having washed the salt out of my hair overnight at Legian, I was looking for a few days of nothing but calming chill and discovered this at Uluwatu in spades; but there is also plenty more on offer. The resort is reached via a narrow and winding road, so you’re already in a cooler frame of mind when you arrive, away from Bali’s hectic traffic. Hire a scooter if you want, but taxis are plentiful and inexpensive – if you’re not splashing out on a car and driver, and the hotel has transport to two particularly delicious local spots – of which more later. 
Set on a clifftop overlooking the Indian Ocean, and with just 73 suites, pool villas and penthouses, Anantara Uluwatu is like a little oasis dedicated to chilling out in style. Beyond the main building, pool villas and suites are laid out on terraces, which lead down to the infinity pool, itself on two levels. The adjacent bar and restaurant is the perfect sunset spot. Below this is the famed Impossibles Beach, named both for the difficulty of accessing it, and for its famously challenging surf. Breakfasting each morning on the rooftop restaurant, or relaxing on the balcony of my suite, I get all Point Break-ey watching the dedicated surfers demonstrating their skill.
It is fun to sit over breakfast, or down at the pool bar in the evening, seeing them paddle out, working out how to time their breaks. Then you spot an expert, and suddenly you’re experiencing exciting poetry in motion, willing them to make it all the way in. Most last just seconds. If second-hand excitement, as you sip a coffee, or (later) a heady cocktail, is your thing, this is the spot for you. Staying at Anantara Uluwatu actually makes Impossibles somewhat less impossible, as there are private steps to the beach, and a handy sign, chalked up each morning, to let you know the access times and tides. One evening, heading for my own balcony to soak up the epic sunset I meet a surfer, complete with board, in the lift. Impossible? I ask. He laughs: not to him.
Monkeying About
Notices in the room remind you not to leave valuables or snacks on the balconies as this area is replete with mischievous monkeys. Subject to a little mischief myself, I put down a morsel pocketed from the epic breakfast buffet and await the advent of, hopefully, photogenic monkeys. Unfortunately they are all obviously elsewhere that day. But those breakfasts! Indonesia is famous for its coffee, and at 360 – named for its panoramic views, they are serving the best I have ever tasted. It is 60% Sumatra and 40% Arabica, the chef tells me. Smooth and dark, it makes me vow to never drink bad coffee again – a harder task, I discover, when I get back home. Another vow is to seek out Balinese spice paste and kecap manis (a type of local soy sauce) to try and recreate 360’s amazing Indonesian rice dish, Nasi Goreng, when back at home. Sadly, I clearly don’t have the same cheffing skills, or maybe, I console myself, it’s all about the quality of the fresh local ingredients.
Uluwatu itself has been gathering a recent reputation as vibey and hipster. Suffice to say, there are vegan restaurants, and lots of surf stuff, and floaty white ensembles for sale. Textiles were once a huge thing here, and Uluwatu embroidery was famous across the island. These days you’ll find plenty of boutiques, although there’s no guarantee that all their wares, beguiling as they are, will be locally crafted.
You are also warned to beware of monkey antics on outings to both Uluwatu Temple, and to Pedang Pedang Beach. They reportedly like to steal both sunglasses and earrings, so pocket your valuables before they try to make a monkey of you too. Daily shuttles run from the hotel to both Pedang Pedang, and the Temple itself, which is more than a thousand years old, and perched on the edge of a cliff. Go at sunset – around 6pm, and experience the Kecak fire dance which takes place in a specially built amphitheatre a short stroll from the temple. Ask at the hotel for ticketing info and current prices.
Beach Beauties
The beaches of Bali are justly famous, but perhaps Padang Padang has an edge, not least because it featured in the Julia Roberts film of Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat Pray Love. It is also absolutely gorgeous, and even though the world knows about it now, it still feels like a discovery, as you squeeze through a rock passage and down cliff steps cut in to the rock to get there. Once you’ve arrived, you can revel in white sands, surfers and a natural lagoon that makes swimming safe.
The beach itself is not huge, but you’ll find Warungs (small Indonesian family owned kiosks) offering freshly opened coconuts to drink, and other sips and snacks, as well as all the usual sarongs, t-shirts, hats and shorts. There is an entry fee to access Padang Padang beach, but at IDR15,000 (less than €1), it’s not going to break the bank. Cash only. Another wonderful nearby beach is Uluwatu, also known as Suluban Beach, which is again reached down steps and through a limestone cave. Watch out for tides, as you’ll need to make sure you can get out again!
Travel Tips
Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort is approximately hour’s drive from Bali’s main Denpasar Airport. The hotel can coordinate transport for you in advance, but a handy general travel tip is to book airport transfers via booking.com for a hassle free way to connect with trusted local drivers. Have local currency with you, as most will not take cards.
Emirates fly Dublin to Bali from approx. €972 return including all taxes and charges. Fly Business Class for Lounge Access, which is a very nice way to spend your Dubai layover, as you’ll find snacks, meals, cocktails and champagne aplenty as part of the service. Alternatively you can purchase lounge access for US$150 for Skywards members. emirates.com
All international visitors to Indonesia require a Visa, which costs IDR500,000 (€30). EU citizens can purchase a VOA (Visa on Arrival) online in advance at molina.imigrasi.go.id/web/visa-selection. Have yours printed out to present with your passport at immigration.
Rates at Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort start at €230 per room B&B, or €370 for a Ocean View Pool Suite, for a sample arrival date of February 19 2024. Prices correct at time of writing. Expect higher prices between April and October, which are considered high season in Bali.
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