Executive Chef at Faithlegg Jenny Flynn on her life in food

Jenny Flynn is an award-winning chef leading the tear at Waterford’s Faithlegg who first began dominating the largely male-dominated restaurant industry close to 30 years ago.

A person with a great respect for food in its many forms, Jenny believes that a good chef’s duty is to do everything in their power to make the produce on the plate sing.

Here, she shares her life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

I always remember being outside either picking berries or flowers and making mud cakes to sell!

How would you describe your relationship with food?

I respect food. Food is always evolving, the textures and flavour will change from season to season, so a good chef always tastes and adapts the seasoning to allow the produce on the plate to sing.

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

This seems simple, but I first learnt how to make custard! The whisking of the egg yolks, how they changed colour, the small amount of cornflour with such an impact on the milk, it fascinated me. Blackberries and custard.

How did food become a part of your career?

Food has always been my passion so when I got my first job as a kitchen porter, I was seen in the larder more than in the pot wash. I started reading books about food and learning about the history of gastronomy which is whereI forged a love.

What’s your go-to breakfast?

At Grow HQ, a cafe in Co. Waterford, the team makes a goats cheese omelette with crispy Crowes bacon and short black coffee. They have it down to a tee.

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

I love the theatre of a rib of beef at the table with a garlic and thyme crust, and a bowl of new Wexford potatoes. I like family style service for food.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

I have many chefs that I follow and respect but the team of chefs I work with here in Faithlegg are talented – we are always questioning and inspiring each other.

What would your last meal on earth be?

Spicy lamb pie, with coleslaw, I love a good pie. The pastry is key.

What’s your go-to comfort food?

Caramel bar out of the freezer.

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

Gubbeen chorizo pasta with basil – two minutes and it’s ready.

What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?

This is a controversial one – truffle oil. I like fresh truffles but not a fan of truffle oil!

Hangover cure?

A banana – don’t know how but it works but one banana and I am not hungover anymore! Now when anyone sees me eating a banana they will think I am hungover.

Sweet or savoury?

Savoury, comes with age, cheese and pickles.

Fine dining or pub grub?

It depends on my mood, if I am going out to really treat myself I enjoy the finesse and flavour combinations that fine dining brings. It always inspires me and it’s an experience in itself. For a relaxed evening out with friends I love a bit of pub grub, hearty portions and simple goodness!

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

I have been blessed to get to try many great restaurants in Ireland, we are so lucky in Waterford to have a huge number of different styles of restaurants that are all top quality and I would have a really hard time just picking one. At the moment I still have The Black Pig in Cork as one of my favourites because of the freshness of their ingredients, the simplicity of their menu and of course really great wine! But honestly I could name 100 that I’d recommend in a heartbeat!

Best coffee in Ireland?

Origins coffee blend (coffee house lane Waterford).

Go-to beverage accompaniment?

Olives.

What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?

We have some amazing produce and restaurants but since Covid, there is a need for more. Our industry has changed so much over a short space of time – it needed to change. The days of working 12-14 hour shifts are gone for good – I hope. But we have a shortage of talented chefs and that means restaurants can’t open on Mondays or Tuesdays, which means that chefs can’t sample other great restaurants as they are closed.

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

When I prepare a dish and I see the reaction of our guests that is all the job satisfaction I need.

What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?

I am most relaxed when I am preparing dinner or lunch at home. I tend not to be home most evenings so when I am it’s my haven of inspiration.

Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

There is always room for improvement, Irish produce gets some recognition, but we need to sing about Irish culinary excellence just as proudly as the French and Spanish who fiercely protect their food culture and heritage. I believe we have so much more to offer to the world food scene, but our modesty as a nation holds us back.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

I had a bowl of mussels sitting in the sun with a glass of wine in Dunmore East recently. It was like I was on holiday – great atmosphere and the mussels were perfectly cooked and so fresh. I was also at a market in Cork on the way to a match and we stopped off at Douglas Market. I had the most amazing oysters.

Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant, or particularly talented foodie family member.

I have worked with so many amazing chefs it would be unfair of me to single one out. Any chef that has the passion and drive to reach the top of their game while bringing Irish produce to the fore deserves recognition in my book. However, I have to give a nod to my talented Granny who had no cookbooks, 17 kids to raise and a delicious dinner on the table every night (unfortunately a skill that is getting rarer). She was a superwoman in my eyes and the reason I found my passion in life.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

Fresh produce not over flavoured not overworked, sometimes simplicity is perfection.

Imagery via @faithlegghouse on Instagram