Mallorca has a reputation as a party island, however there is a lot more it than night clubs and drinking all day. At a crossroads in the Mediterranean, the island has seen many rulers from Phoenicians to Romans to Vandals to Muslims and finally Christianity. Each has left their mark of this fascinating island, and you can engage your senses in some of the finer things that the island has to offer, as Joan Scales discovers.
Skyline Views
As a regular visitor to Palma, I was delighted to discover some additions to the cityscape with new rooftop venues. The Hotel Almudaina has the Sky Area restaurant and terrace on the 9th floor. It is on one of the poshest streets near El Corte Ingles, and the three-course lunch was a very nice €22.50.
The view was stunning, a panorama of the city with the striking cathedral in the background and Bellver Castle in the distance beyond the massive Port of Palma with huge cruises ships coming and going.
Rooftop two was on the top of the JS Palma Plaza Hotel, a new and design-led addition to the city. At the crossroads of the Plaza Madrid, the terrace and pool area are a secret hideaway. The lane pool was surrounded by day beds and loungers where you could relax, enjoy the sun and is an ideal place to wind down after a day exploring Palma’s ancient city.
On a walk towards the hopping nightlife area of Santa Catalina, I spotted a new addition to Bar Cuba. The rooftop now has one of the coolest bars in the city. Do go early to bag a good seat, as it is heaving after late dinner.
The ancient streets of Palma
When it comes to taste, Spanish food keeps getting better. On a guided walk around Palma, we discovered lots of lovely bakeries and independent food shops. Each had its own speciality, it could be a particular ensanemada , a type of pastry or sobrasada, a Mallorcan spreadable raw sausage, made from pork and seasoned with paprika and other spices, and delicious on crusty bread.
One way of discovering the past of Palma, is to look up and see some extraordinarily decorated buildings, art peeking out of windows, Gaudi’s imprint on a corner street, a stone carving of a duel with knights and dragons and the gothic architecture of the cathedral
Palma at Night
Nightlife in Palma is all about food and bar hopping, especially around the La Lonja and Santa Catalina areas. Whether you try typical hearty Mallorcan cuisine in Celler Pages or the Asia inspired food at Nus Restaurant led by inspiring young chef Irene Martinez, you will not be disappointed.
No nighttime visit to Palma is complete unless you take a step back in time to the Baroque era at Bar Abaco on Calle Juan. This extraordinary place was a merchant’s house from the 17th century and is lovingly and lavishly decorated in that period.
Urns and vases of fresh flowers are everywhere, fruit tumbles from Mallorcan baskets, sculptures, paintings, rugs and period furniture are dotted around. Upstairs you can visit the merchant’s salons and period kitchen.
The courtyard has palm trees and greenery, and though the cocktails may be the dearest in Mallorca at €17, it is worth it for the Bacchanalian scenery, operatic music and people-watching.
Beyond Palma
Boat trips are a popular way of spending a day exploring the coastline and finding quiet coves for swimming. Our captain took us along the coast of Calavia, west of Palma and found a quiet cove. Here we could try snorkelling, paddle-boarding and my newest craze, using an underwater seaflyer surfer. This is like the handlebars of a scooter with two small engines that pull you about in the water – it’s great fun.
Lunch was at Palma Nova at the beachside Siso Restaurant where we were serenaded by a lounge singer. Friday afternoons are very popular here for this reason. The sounds of Frank Sinatra went well with the delicious Spanish food.
The northeast of Mallorca is a less busy part though the resort of Alcudia, with its shallow bay is popular with families. On the way to the highest point on the coast, a detour allowed for a visit to the Vincens textile factory and shop. Here they have been making the traditional fabric for 160 years. It was fascinating to see the cotton and linen dyed and woven.
If you go this far you need to continue to see the spectacular scenery on the mountainous road to Formentor. Let your eyes drink in the scenery and take some stunning photos at the Mirador Es Colomer and wonder about the love knots tied to the fence.
On the way down you can see Pollenca, the ancient town of the Romans where not surprisingly, we lunched at an Italian restaurant – Respira. The food was excellent, and we enjoyed pasta with truffle, huge mussels and cannelloni stuffed with chicken.
Sounds of the Sea
One of the nicest things to have on holidays is the sound of the sea to lull you to sleep. In the San Moll Sentits Resort, that is exactly what you will get if you leave your balcony door ajar.
On the Cala Ratjada this resort is above a lovely beach and each room has a sea view. It is an area of Mallorca that’s probably not known to the Irish, as the pubs were all showing German football.
Sunday morning began with a walk on the beach, watching the early swimmers. During breakfast a violinist gently played a selection of popular songs, including some from Coldplay, – it wasn’t all classical.
The resort has everything you could need for a relaxing holiday. There is spa, a speciality restaurant, lots of places to relax, direct access to the beach and a small village with pubs and shops on the doorstep.
Art for the Senses
Returning to Palma we had to see the cornucopia of art that has been collected over many years by Yannick and Ben Jakober and gathered in the Museo Sa Bassa Blanca near Alcudia. It is mind boggling. As artists and sculptors, the grounds are a veritable zoo of stone animals with elephants, monkeys, gorillas, camels, rhinos and more. There is also a Celtic stone circle, a silver spaceship and life-size golden Barbie and Ken!
There are various galleries in the main house and around the grounds. One is devoted to paintings of children from the 16 – 19th century. Another is devoted to African art with a fertility theme and has a Ghanian coffin shaped like a shoe. There is an amazing library, lots of Pop Art, and a gallery of chairs designed by well-known artists such as Damian Hirst.
My favourite was the Icon room with an 15th century Moorish ceiling found in bits in a market in Palma. The MSBB will keep you enthralled with its very eclectic mix of art and periods.
Golf in Majorca
The last stop on the busy trip was to call into the Golf Pula, at Son Servera, redesigned by no other than Jose Maria Olazabel. It has hosted the PGA European Open among many championships.
This beautiful course is not only great for golf, but there is a lovely 16th century finca – farmhouse, self-catering suites, spa, pool and an organic garden. It is a very popular wedding venue too. All the vegetables and fruit for the clubhouse restaurant are grown here, along with the eggs from the chickens.
I hope this tour of Mallorca beyond the beaches will give you a taste of how your senses can be enhanced by this beautiful island.
Getting There
There are daily flights from Dublin to Palma with Ryanair until the end of October, and until the end of November with Aer Lingus. From Cork, Aer Lingus and Ryanair fly four times a week to Palma until the end of October. From Shannon Ryanair operates four times per week until the end October. Direct flights from Dublin and Cork will resume in March 2025, from Shannon in April 2025.
Find more information at mallorca.es
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