Head chef at Ashford Castle Liam Finnegan shares his life in food
Liam Finnegan shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Liam Finnegan is the Executive Head Chef at Ashford Castle. Born and raised in Carlingford, Co Louth, Liam has worked in a number of prestigious restaurants in both Ireland and the UK, including Michael Caine’s two Michelin Star restaurants, Gidleigh Park in Devon and The Castle Hotel, Taunton (3AA Rosettes).
Liam’s passion for fine dining combines old-school cooking with creative flair, which is brought to life in the dishes he creates in The George V Dining Room at Ashford Castle. Here, he shares his life in food…
What are your earliest memories of food?
My earliest memories of food centre around my Nanny Patsy. It was as much about the way it felt as the eating. She was an amazing home cook for a very large family. We would have my grandfather’s home-grown veg, daily made soda bread all cooked on the turf range. Nanny would cook by the season using what was available — this is something that’s very important to me too.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
Erratic! Like most chefs I know, eating within a normal routine is difficult when you’re tasting and around food all day. Ultimately, food for me is about love and comfort and taking care of people.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
As a child, shadowing my grandmother, the first dishes I learned to cook were stew and seafood broth. Professionally, I started as a kitchen porter with Mark Woods in Carlingford and would help on salads and starters. I remember his confit pork spring rolls. Mark spent a lot of time travelling, so he had some great spicing knowledge and understanding when he came back to Ireland.
How did food become a part of your career?
I think like most natural things in life, I grew up with it and leaned into it. My dream as a child was to be an astronaut — food for me was nourishing and caring and not something I thought would be a professional career. How wrong I was — but I still look to the moon!
What’s your go-to breakfast?
I have two. At home we have crepe Sunday. My wife makes the batter mix using self-raising flour, an egg, baking powder, a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar, whole milk and butter. My favourite is sliced ham and a vintage cheddar with salted butter and cracked black pepper on the top. My other go-to breakfast would be poached eggs, and Burren Smokehouse smoked salmon on a toasted sourdough.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
I like to keep it really simple, nothing too stressful as you want to enjoy the time with friends and family. I recently catered a family member’s birthday weekend. The first night I did a mac and cheese dish with a pickled cucumber, slow roast tomato, garlic and rocket salad. The second night was lots of canapés followed by a gammon and root vegetable, mustard and parsley pie. It catered for adults and children alike, keeping it simple, hearty, warm, and fun was key, and I like to think I impressed!
Who is your culinary inspiration?
Professionally and in the kitchen, my greatest mentor was Michael Caines, and outside the kitchen, it’s Kit Chapman, who is the owner of The Castle Taunton, a very driven man who continually pushed me in the best possible way. Separately, my family are a huge motivator for me and inspire me to give my all every day. My wife and I recently welcomed baby number five into the fold and that certainly keeps me on my toes.
What would your last meal on earth be?
To start, I love fresh crab with lemon, radish and rocket. When I was young it was such a treat heading to our grandparents’ house for fresh crab, lobster, razors or sea bass, so it’s a real nostalgia dish for me.
For the main course, I love a Sunday roast and chicken for me with stuffing, fresh greens, cauliflower cheese, roast potatoes with thyme and garlic and gravy is the ultimate comfort food. It’s perfect for when the whole family is around.
Dessert-wise, I love a baked custard tart with nutmeg ice cream and forced rhubarb.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
My go-to is a simple toasted ham cheese sandwich with a tomato and red onion chutney, but cooked in the pan like a Croque Madame – ready in 4-5 mins, and when finished after a long day, it’s the ultimate feet-up snack.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
It was when chefs would add rose or lavender to dishes. That said, our former head of pastry, Andrew Ryan, proved me wrong last year with a layered cake made with lavender – I was a fan!
Hangover cure?
A long walk and outdoors. Food-wise I always turn to a burger or pizza.
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Fine dining if just with my wife. Pub grub if with the children in a zoned-off area with space and a tolerance for noise.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
There’s simply too many to choose from, we really are spoiled for choice here in Ireland, and I may be biased, but there is no scarcity of amazing restaurants to try in the West of Ireland.
Best coffee in Ireland?
My Little Flower in Oughterard. Matt takes his coffee and bean selection seriously and he’s very easy on the eye – sometimes it’s best just to stay and watch him.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
Coming back from the UK I was, and still am, so impressed. I think our raw ingredients are some of the best in the world. This year we hosted Food On The Edge in Ashford Castle and it was great to meet and talk with a lot of people, not just from Ireland but worldwide. Irish people by nature are ridiculously kind and collaborative – I love working with producers within our local community, they’re some of the most passionate and driven people I know.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
Creating experiences for people. Both in the kitchen, in the dining room and on the table. I truly love everything about the kitchen…. I just love everything to do with our industry.
What does food—sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc—mean to you?
Put simply, it means everything – food is my life.
Food for thought – Is there room for improvement within the Irish food scene?
We have a wonderfully diverse food scene here in Ireland, but there is always room for improvement. It’s particularly tough right now for stand-alone restaurants and pubs due to the current economic climate. The hospitality industry really hasn’t caught a break since COVID and it’s forced the industry to reevaluate things, particularly the work culture. There is a pressing need to attract and retain talent in the industry and in doing so, we can foster a thriving food and hospitality scene well into the future.
Chef’s kiss – Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
I recently enjoyed a sensational meal in Aniar in Galway – JP McMahon has a great restaurant and team creating some serious food.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
I have to tip my hat to Conor Mee – a top-quality chef, owner and mentor. He’s worked with consistency and integrity for as long as I’ve known him, which is over 20 years now.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
Here at Ashford Castle, we believe the perfect dining experience combines company, connection, quality of service and quality of food. Since joining the team, it’s really opened my eyes to top quality service. The attention to detail and customer care is nothing I’ve seen before in my travels. The stories you’re left with from the dining experience is what makes it meaningful to me.
