Head Chef of The Gallery Cafe Hannah O’Donnell on her life in food

Hannah O’Donnell is head chef at The Gallery Café Gort, in the historical market town just outside of Galway.

From early morning to late in the evening, there are delicious pastries, tasty brunch and lunch options, and an exciting dinner menu that changes every two weeks, designed and prepared with love and extreme attention to detail by the wonderful Hannah. Here, we talk to Hannah about how her natural food curiosities lead her to pursue a career in the culinary world, her favourite flavours, and secret ingredients.

Here, Hannah O’Donnell shares her life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

My earliest memory of food was probably apple sauce. It’s not as common here in Ireland but in the States it’s a very common thing to feed young kids. It’s also a common condiment for pork and other dishes. It’s not too overly sweet with a lovely sourness to it. I always loved sour foods as a cold because it was such an explosion to the tastebuds. There’s a sweetness from the apple, and a kind of earthiness. I still love apples in many different forms with savoury foods.

How would you describe your relationship with food?

I’ve always had a curiosity with food, always wanting to know what my mom was cooking or what someone else was eating. I just always needed to know more. My mom would say it was a pain to go out to eat with because I always wanted to order off the adult menu, never the kids menu, and then insist on trying what everyone else ordered.

How did food become a part of your career?

Theatre and acting was a big part of my life for many years. Obviously you get your first job waitressing or washing dishes just to learn a skill and make some money for buying whatever cool thing all the kids wanted at the time. But food was always there as well and over the years I realised that both require creativity, passion, trust and being able to handle stress in a performance setting. So for me, being kind of a ‘Ham’—or just an expressive person—the culinary world just fit. Both worlds are very similar and with cooking you get to eat all the lovely things as well!

What’s your go-to breakfast?

My go -to breakfast would have to be scrambled eggs. It’s so, so easy and fast and also luxurious as well. If I have some fermented hot sauce in the fridge and some lovely comté cheese, it’s a win.

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

For parties I always love making dips. You can never go wrong with a selection of different creamy things you can dunk bread, chips and vegetables in. Every Christmas I make my famous pimento cheese dip which is a hybrid of my mother’s cheese log and the southern pimento cheese dip. Everyone is always super excited to get a batch for Christmas.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

I’d say one of them is my mother. She’s always been so passionate and creative and can make anything by just using what she can find. I think that’s a hugely underrated skill to have, to be able to turn leftovers into an amazing meal or adding jam into a roasted butternut squash salad when you don’t really have anything else, but you know it needs something.

What would your last meal on earth be?

My last meal on earth and I’ve said this for a few years now, would be a Caribou burger and an amaretto sour. Caribou is a lovely pub in Galway and I just think their burger is the best!

What’s your go-to comfort food?

My go-to comfort food is always a version of creamy pasta. Anything cheesy and gooey makes you feel all warm and fuzzy. The more broccoli the better!

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

I just always go for ‘brinner’ breakfast for dinner. fried egg on toast, some beans maybe some bacon and mushrooms whatever i have in have around.

What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?

I really dislike blue cheese, I’d say I’m actually pretty basic when it comes to cheese. It’s just far too strong for me. I also have never been able to like calamari and octopus. It’s the tentacles.

Hangover cure?

For hangovers? It really depends. Sometimes all I want is something super cheesy and greasy but usually I just want all the green juice/smoothies and ice cold sparkling water.

Sweet or savoury?

I love them both together! Fruit in savoury dishes is what I’m known for, always adding dried fruit to curries or stews and salads. Or chocolate and ready salted crisps are delicious! If I had to pick just one though it would be savoury.

Fine dining or pub grub?

That’s tough because I really love fine dining but I’m pretty basic, so anywhere where I can get a side of chips and garlic mayo I’m delighted.

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

I know there’s so many restaurants in Ireland I’m dying to try but I always find that I don’t get to go to many places. I just don’t find the time usually. Obviously there are some great ones in Galway like Kai, Éan and Rúibín but I would love to get to Cork and Dublin to try more.

Best coffee in Ireland?

The coffee in The Gallery Café in Gort where I’m head chef now is amazing! Anam is a small coffee roaster located in the Burren. The Gallery gets the beans in front of Anam and grinds them in house which I think really makes the difference.

Go-to beverage accompaniment?

Olives! When I was younger I hated olives and one day I made the choice to try and like them. So I just kept eating them and slowly but surely I grew to adore them. Their saltiness and super savoury flavour and wide variety make them the perfect pairing.

What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?

I think the Irish food scene is commendable. We are so lucky to live in a country so passionate about good produce and sustainability. Throughout the years the growth in the Irish food scene is amazing and I’m excited to see where it will go next.

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

My favourite thing about cooking is the possibilities. You can make anything, and you never stop learning new skills and different cuisines. I also love that food is a universal language — it brings such comfort and joy to people, how could you not want to be part of that?

What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?

It’s such a joy to feed people. I get so excited when I have people over for dinner or I’ve made a special staff meal that I know everyone will love. Food has a wonderful talent of bringing family and friends together.

Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

There’s always going to be room for improvement in any industry. As you go and progress you see what works and doesn’t work anymore. Personally, I think lockdown had a huge impact on my view of work-life balance. I think taking more time for yourself and having a life is so important.

The chefing culture for years has demanded working crazy hours and not enjoying life, not seeing loved ones and friends, or simply doing nothing for the day and I think that that’s something that is on the rise to change.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

In The Gallery Café, I work with some wonderful Brazilian women and I get to taste some of their delicious dishes that I would have never heard of. It is so wonderful being around different cultures to experience the different types of food out there.

Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

I’ve been lucky enough to have a culinary historian for a mother. She exposed us to as many cuisines and dishes from a very young age which is amazing, she’s a true talent.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

I think I have narrowed it down to three ingredients. First of all, marmite is amazing! Its super salty umami depth saves many a vegetarian dish that needs a little something. I also love adding it to cheese sauces. Then there’s fenugreek which is a wonderful leaf and seed used in Indian cooking. I feel like it has a brown butter flavour so I also add to dishes that aren’t exactly Indian. I’ll often add it to tomato soup. And fennel seeds, just again, add wonderful depth to a dish when needed with a subtle sweetness as well.