Head Pastry Chef at Ballymaloe House JR Ryall on his life in food
JR Ryall shares his life in food, from his earliest memories to his favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
JR Ryall has been the Head Pastry Chef at Ballymaloe House Hotel in Ireland for many years. He worked closely with Ballymaloe House Hotel founder, Myrtle Allen, for fifteen years, and after her mentorship, he took over the pastry program in 2010, which he has been managing ever since.
What are your earliest memories of food?
My earliest memories are playing around my grandaunt’s kitchen sink while watching her make trays of shortbread, crumpets and brown soda bread.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
I love to eat, and I love to cook, something that has shaped my life. I greatly value good food and good ingredients. To me, flavour, quality and provenance are paramount.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
I started on a sweet footing with cakes and biscuits. I have early memories of butterfly buns and shortbread cut into diamonds.
How did food become a part of your career?
My career started when I was a teenager. Rory O’Connell offered me a part-time job in the Ballymaloe House Hotel pastry kitchen. I kept it up. I’m still working here 20 years later.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
Macroom oatmeal porridge with cream and soft dark brown sugar.
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
I love preparing picnic suppers when friends come to visit. There’s a special spot on the Ballycotton Cliffs with soft, bouncy grass where I always take them. I usually make a bacon and egg pie along with a dessert featuring whatever fruit is in season.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
I’ve always been drawn to strong female mentors like Myrtle Allen, Darina Allen, Diana Kennedy, and Alice Waters. Their independent, free-thinking spirit has been a constant source of inspiration for me.
What would your last meal on earth be?
Irish stew followed by Carrageen Moss pudding.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Rice pudding with jam, cream and soft dark brown sugar.
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
Poached eggs on toast.
What is one food or flavour you cannot stand?
New York-style cheesecake makes me queasy.
Hangover cure?
Morning sea swim or a Bloody Mary.
Sweet or savoury?
Both, I like it all.
Fine dining or pub grub?
I tend to prefer more casual dining.
Favourite restaurant in Ireland?
It’s so hard to choose favourites! At the moment, mine are Paradiso (Cork), The Beach House (Tramore), Library St. (Dublin), and Goldie (Cork).
Best coffee in Ireland?
I’m a big fan of The Golden Bean Coffee Roasters—we use their beans at Ballymaloe House Hotel. Whenever I’m in Cork city, I always stop by Filter Espresso Bar on South Main Street.
Go-to beverage accompaniment?
Oatmeal biscuits with a cup of tea.
Martini and Sicilian Nocellara olives.
Champagne and cheese croquettes.
Guinness and cheese and onion Tayto crisps.
What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?
Right now, the Irish food scene is incredibly exciting. The exceptional quality of our raw ingredients truly sets us apart. It’s fantastic to see so many chefs across Ireland building lasting relationships with local growers and producers, which translates into an authentic taste of place in our food.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
I love getting into the flow of cooking and preparing food. It’s so enjoyable and immersive.
What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?
Food combines so many of the things I love, cooking, eating, spending time with others, and ultimately making people happy.
Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?
Yes, we still have a long way to go as an industry. I dream of the day when chefs, servers and producers have the same opportunity for work-life balance and financial security that comes with jobs such as those in the tech industry.
Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
I can’t stop thinking about the incredibly delicious loaf of focaccia my friend Sinead made over the weekend. The crust was glistening gold, chewy, and dimpled all over with garlic-salted butter. It was pure heaven.
Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.
I’m full of admiration for Ken Doherty and Gwen McGrath, they really made a mark with “Assassination Custard”. Their restaurant closed recently, but I am excited about what they’ll do next—no doubt they’ll bring something equally remarkable to the table.
Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?
It’s all about the perfect blend of people, setting, and food: fun, relaxed, and delicious.
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