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01st Sep 2024
The Ice House just outside of Ballina, Co. Mayo boasts incredible river views, divine bites and a next-level spa with outdoor baths, Jacuzzis and a glass-walled River Room.
The first thing you might notice, aside from its riverside location, is the array of art in the Ice House. Located just outside Ballina, the hotel underwent a significant renovation of the 150-year-old Victorian building by Smith + Kennedy Architecture and its owner, Pearse Farrell, saw the opportunity to invest not only in the hotel, but also in a large collection of Irish art. It’s an eclectic mix, from Vincent Sheridan’s murmuration prints and the landscapes of Martin Gale to Hughie O’Donoghue’s portraits. Each bedroom has its own individually selected print – one strong piece a welcome change from the typically generic yet excessive hotel room artwork.
Of course, Ice House doesn’t just show off the art. At nearly every turn, you catch a glimpse the river, from slivers as you enter the original main house to expansive walls of glass in the modern bedrooms. It knows that no artwork can replace such a scene – leaping salmon, a pair of curious seals, an adorable otter and plethora of birds all captured our attention during our one-night stay.
In fact, the view from our bed was so delightful, it was tempting to just spend the day there, the sliding glass door open allowing the sounds of the river to float in. However, a world-class spa and a dining experience (both with equally good river views) convinced us to get up and out.
The room
Our bedroom was probably one of the nicest Irish hotel rooms I’ve ever been in, with a focus on simplicity over overly elaborate decor. It let the incredible view of the Moy River do all the talking, with minimal interiors, crisp white walls and bed sheets and a luxurious bed throw made in Foxford, a stone’s throw down the road.
We lay on the bed and watched the salmon leaping out of the water to catch some low-hanging flies, a seal popped up for a quick visit and I spotted a small otter early in the morning too. Plus plenty of birds and a handful of rowers glided by.
The bathroom is the definition of minimalist luxury, with a carved stone sink merging into a vanity area, free-standing bathroom and clerestory window to bring light into the space while maintaining privacy.
Food & drink
54° 9° is located in the original ice house where they would have frozen and stored the salmon caught on the river before it was placed on the train, headed for the London markets. The arched stone roof is juxtaposed against the glass box extension with, you guessed it, more river views. For a relatively small floorpan, the Ice House feels like it has acres of viewing capacity.
The Macroom mozzarella and parma ham starter was next level, and it’s worth trying Chef Kwanghi Chan’s summer dish, steamed hake on a bed of ginger and spring onion. Light, fresh, crispy, it’s a perfect summer bite.
The spa
You get a peek of the outdoor decks of the spa as you walk up along the river. Much of the spa area sits on reclaimed land, allowing for a modern feel, floor-to-ceiling glass floating over the river. On the deck, two pairs of seaweed baths overlook the water, alongside two hot tubs, a seating area, a sauna and a private jacuzzi.
Inside is an Aroma Room, a Snooze Room and, my personal favourite, the River Room. A glass box floating over the river, heating wooden beds that give a gentle rock when you ease into them. I sat in here before my massage and was nearly asleep by the end of the ten-minute wait.
My massage was glorious and also snooze-inducing, but the more important review came from my husband, a committed anti-spa-er. He had a full-body massage with their male therapist, Vasyl, and came out SINGING his praises. He said it was the best massage he ever had and Vasyl was full of knowledge and advice on loosening up his tight neck and tricep.
You don’t have to be staying in the hotel to access the spa either, with day passes available. There was a gaggle of women in the changing rooms when I was getting dressed, excitedly chatting about getting to spend the day together in the hot tubs, minus kids and partners. It had me considering joining them but unfortunately, we had to hit the road.
Things to do
About twenty minutes away is Foxford Woollen Mills, a working woollen mill that’s been open since 1893. As well as peeking into the working factory through the windows of the shop and getting your hands on the butter-soft selection of throws, scarves and bed linen across two floors, it also hosts a large selection of Irish brands as well as a delicious lunch menu and a bright and airy seating area.
Make sure to pick up a jar of Foxford’s homemade produce, the strawberry and rhubarb jam is divine, as is the beetroot and orange relish, all made on-site and featured throughout the menu.
The Ice House in Ballina, right on the river Moy, is hosting a series of unique wellness overnights throughout the year, Full Moons on the Moy, designed to coincide with and celebrate some of 2024’s most important full moons, with guided meditations created by Audrey O’Connor of Corestate.
Each of the chosen full moons has a different impact and Audrey, a talented sound healer, breathwork and movement practitioner and energy embodiment coach, brings her mind-body-soul connection to a bespoke 30-minute guided meditation on the focus and benefits of these different moon energies.
Each meditation recording will be available in your room at the Ice House to access during your stay at a time that suits you — maybe after enjoying a cocktail designed by Thibault Luxembourger, the talented mixologist at the Ice House, on the terrace or in the bar while admiring the relevant full moon reflected in the river.
The selected full moons for which Audrey has created special meditations are the Sturgeon Moon (a blue moon) on Monday, August 19, the Corn Moon on Tuesday, September 17, and the Hunter’s Moon on Thursday, October 17.