Irish chef, author and proprietor of Paradiso Denis Cotter on his life in food

When Denis Cotter opened Paradiso in Cork City in 1993, he wanted to create an exciting, modern, vegetable-based cuisine. The restaurant soon gained local and international recognition for its ground-breaking, flavour-driven food, and its dedication to local and seasonal produce was ahead of its time.

Paradiso continued to evolve over the decades, becoming a much-loved part of Cork’s food culture and remaining at the forefront of creative vegetable cooking. Along the way, a unique cuisine came into being, a style of cooking that grew into something that remains identifiably Paradiso.

Author of Paradiso: Recipes & Reflections, Denis Cotter truly is a revolutionary name on the Irish food scene.

Here, he shares his life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

The fried potatoes my father used to make for us after a Sunday afternoon spent running around playing cowboys on the farm he grew up on. He would break leftover potatoes into the pan and then fry them in lard while continuing to break and turn them while they cooked to a crisp chunky mess. I later used the technique to make crushed potato in Paradiso and even published the ‘recipe’ in one of my early books (with olive oil instead of lard, of course!)

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

Creamy vegetable curry with banana and raisins, served surrounded by a ring of rice. I don’t know where I learned that but it was a thing back in the late ’70’s / early ’80’s, and the dish I made when it was my turn to make dinner in the house share.

What’s your favourite ingredient or dish?

Aubergine. It’s so versatile, works in any style of cuisine and, depending on how you cut or slice it, can provide any texture from puree to wrapping material.

What’s an ingredient or dish you cannot stand?

I have to admit to gagging a bit on seaweed.

What’s your go-to comfort food?

Favourite comfort food is mash, usually embellished with an oily stew of beluga lentils, greens, chilli and a dusting of cheese.

Food for thought — what would you do to improve the Irish food scene?

I think the food/restaurant scene is improving and growing organically, bearing in mind that it is a relatively new culture here. I recently saw a presentation about the Slovenian food industry that emphasised the importance of bringing the mid-price, casual and lunch sections along on the same ethos as the high end – local sourcing, quality ingredients and a sense of belonging to the community – and if we could find a way for that to happen it would hugely improve the dining out experience. I suppose the key to that is support for people who want to operate to a high standard in those sections.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout food experience you’ve had recently.

Dede in Baltimore last year. Inside the sophisticated presentation there was a very simple and authentic delivery of hugely pleasurable flavour. I think that’s rare in high end cuisine and it feels like it comes from the person behind the food.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

Food that delivers pleasure, of course, but that also requires a dining room service that makes it happen and even elevates it.

Who is your culinary inspiration or food hero?

Long ago, I was inspired by Alice Waters. I sent her a copy of my second book and she wrote a letter back that is tucked into my copy of that book. Right now, I am in awe of the Paradiso kitchen team, who keep getting better and better!

What would your last meal on earth be?

If I had the appetite for it, a big bowl of pasta with olive oil, cavolo nero, chillies, garlic, sungold tomatoes and Cratloe Hills sheep’s cheese. Otherwise a small bowl of scrambled egg with white truffle shavings.

Feature image via Miki Barlok. Plate shots by Ruth Calder-Potts.