Photos by Storybord
Meet the sisters behind the hugely successful Nóinín in Kilkenny
Working with local produce and playing with big flavours, sisters Sinéad and Maeve Moclair have made Nóinín in Kilkenny a resounding success.
Stepping off a riverside street in Kilkenny into a small but bright room, simply decorated and often packed full of people, going through the door of Nóinín feels a little like entering a bustling home. Colourful plates hang on the walls and fresh flowers adorn the simple tables, but when food arrives at your table, it is anything but ordinary.
Chef Sinéad Moclair opened the doors in November 2022, and Nóinín (“daisy” in Irish) soon became known for its small but perfectly executed menu, featuring local producers and flavours that you reminisce about long after your plate is clean. Originally working as a tax consultant before leaving to train in Ballymaloe, she worked in kitchens including Nash 19 in Cork and The Fumbally in Dublin.
However, it was a pop-up restaurant in Clifden, Báidín, in the summer of 2021 that was a turning point. “We had this huge outdoor dining space next to the water,” Sinéad says, “so it was just idyllic. It was challenging, we had a tiny kitchen, and it was hard work, but it was a lot of fun. It made me realise, ‘I want to do this.’”
Crucially, it was also the first time Sinéad and her sister, Maeve, worked together in a restaurant. A primary school teacher, Maeve had no previous hospitality experience when Sinéad asked if she’d like to come and help out for a weekend. A weekend turned into the whole summer, and the idea of opening somewhere together was born. “That really sowed the seed for Nóinín,” Sinéad explains. “I knew I wanted to do my own thing, but it made Maeve realise her love for hospitality. As a chef, the kitchen is my happy space, so I was so grateful to have someone who was willing to look after the front of house side of things.”
Maeve took a career break from her teaching job, and the duo found their Kilkenny space, close to Fethard in Co Tipperary where they’re from. They love that it has both a mix of locals all year round, and an influx of people in the summer. “I love the buzz when the tourists arrive,” Sinéad says.
Inspired by Báidín where a small kitchen meant the menu had to be tight, Nóinín usually has just a handful of options, but that doesn’t mean it’s going to be any easier to choose which one to order. Changing constantly depending on what is available from her suppliers, including organic growers Riversfield Farm and Gerry O’Brien’s Butchers, the offering is also inspired by Sinéad’s travels, as well as her copious cookbook collection. “I love the creative side of cooking, being able to just play with stuff. And because this is my restaurant, there’s nobody telling me what I can’t do. If I think something is delicious, I’ll serve it.”
It seems that Sinéad is an excellent judge of what is delicious, with the restaurant quickly earning glowing reviews and loyal customers. She is proud of the accolades and praise they have won, but she says she equally enjoys “the moments when customers just stick their head into the kitchen and say ‘that was delicious’. I do this because I love feeding people, so I never take that for granted.”
Maeve’s career break came to an end last September, so she is no longer involved full-time, but customers will still see her running things on weekends. “I found that a tough transition, I really missed her,” Sinéad says. “But the most important thing has always been that we maintain our sister relationship first. I’m very grateful that she wanted to go on this adventure with me, because I couldn’t have asked for a better person to do it with.”
Photography by Storybord.
This article originally appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of IMAGE Magazine.
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