Nicola Crowley shares her life in food, from her earliest memories to her favourite flavours and culinary inspirations.
Co-owner of Mezze – Middle Eastern Foods in Tramore Co. Waterford, Nicola Crowley first dipped her toe into the food business in 2015, when she and her husband Dvir opened a small pop-up tent, working from her mother’s kitchen on potentially the smallest prep counter in the world, where Dvir cooked up a selection of his favourite mezze; dips, salads and bread.
People liked it, came back for more and the business grew from there. In 2019, Mezze became a brick-and-mortar food business and is now a booming deli, cafe and shop that runs cooking classes and events come evening time.
What are your earliest memories of food?
I grew up in a big family of five kids, plus we often had lodgers or college students staying with us, so my earliest food memories are wrapped up in the happy chaos of nine people gathering for dinner each evening. We were encouraged to help in the kitchen from an early age. I remember kneeling on a chair to peel potatoes for everyone because I couldn’t reach the sink. Food was always about togetherness, something that still holds true at Mezze today.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
Thankfully, I have a healthy relationship with food. In my early thirties, I became more aware of processed foods and started to think more about where our food comes from. Cooking from scratch is just what we do in our house, but that doesn’t mean elaborate meals every night—some nights, it’s a simple soup and toasted cheese sandwiches (on my husband Dvir’s sourdough, of course!). Recently, I’ve adapted my diet to include more vegetables and protein—it suits my body (even if my soul sometimes misses wine and endless cups of tea!). I’ve also been following the Glucose Goddess method, starting meals with a veggie dish, which thankfully aligns with the many salads we serve at Mezze.
What was the first meal you learned to cook?
When I moved to Dublin for university at 17, I pretty much lived on stir-fries. It was the first meal I properly cooked for myself and a staple of my student days.
How did food become a part of your career?
Dvir and I lived in Israel for eight years before moving to Ireland. We left great jobs, friends, and family because we wanted to build something of our own. Dvir started small, making Middle Eastern mezze, dips, and salads for local farmers’ markets, and we quickly realised that people loved the flavours. Step by step, we built up what we could do, and six years ago, we opened Mezze, our deli in the seaside town of Tramore. It’s become a real hub for food lovers, whether they’re popping in for a falafel pitta, picking up Middle Eastern ingredients from our shop or trying their hand at our recipes from our cookbook.
What’s your go-to breakfast?
Homemade granola, Greek yoghurt, homemade chia jam, half a banana, and frozen blueberries. I’ve had it almost every morning for years and I never get bored!
If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?
Always Middle Eastern food—salads, dips, freshly made flatbreads, falafel, tahini, and a slow-cooked lamb or chicken dish with dried fruits. Middle Eastern style eating is perfect for sharing and bringing people together, which is what we love.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
Sarit and Itamar from Honey & Co. Their food is simple yet stunning and they have a brilliant way of communicating through their cookbooks. We admire them a lot at Mezze.
What would your last meal on earth be?
Even though Middle Eastern food is a big part of my life, a roast chicken dinner with mashed potatoes would be the ultimate comfort meal for me.
What’s your go-to comfort food?
Anything with mashed potatoes!
What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?
A simple vegetable and red lentil soup in winter, or in summer, a quick salad with boiled eggs, pickles, and tinned mackerel.
Is there a food or flavour you can’t stand?
Boiled carrots! I’ll happily eat them raw or roasted, but I think I had too many overcooked, flavourless carrots growing up.
Hangover cure?
I try to avoid hangovers—I don’t have time for them! If I do overdo it, a cuppa and a nap work best.
Sweet or savoury?
I have a sweet tooth, but if I had to choose, savoury wins. There’s so much depth in the flavours and textures of vegetables.
Fine dining or pub grub?
Good pub grub! One of my favourite food experiences was eating pintxos in San Sebastian—small bites, great flavours and a casual setting.
What’s your favourite restaurant in Ireland?
For family dining, Momo in Waterford, and for date nights, UNioN Wine Bar.
Best coffee in Ireland?
Apart from Mezze, of course, Molly’s along the Tramore prom—great coffee with an unbeatable sea view.
What are your thoughts on the Irish food scene?
It’s come a long way, and people are embracing new cuisines—our customers at Mezze love trying Middle Eastern flavours and recreating them at home. But there’s still a lack of understanding about the costs involved in sourcing high-quality, local ingredients. Too many places rely on pre-made products rather than cooking from scratch, which isn’t sustainable long-term.
What’s your favourite thing about cooking?
I find it meditative. At Mezze, I don’t cook—I’m front-of-house and work behind the scenes—so cooking at home is a break for my brain and body. I love making something to share with family and friends.
What does food mean to you?
It’s everything. Food brings people together. In our home, we eat Middle Eastern style, with everything served in the centre of the table for sharing. Whether it’s a feast or just soup and a sandwich, the ritual of sitting together and sharing a meal is the most important part of the day for me.
Is there room for improvement in the Irish food scene?
Absolutely—more focus on sourcing locally and cooking from scratch. Simple things like homemade jam with a scone instead of those plastic single-serve ones should be the norm!
Tell us about a standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.
We took a food trip to London recently, and our standout meal was at The Palomar, a Middle Eastern restaurant with Israeli influence. Sitting at the kitchen bar, chatting with the head chef and watching the food being prepared made for an unforgettable experience.
Now’s your chance to shout out a talented chef or restaurant.
Luis Martin from Mara in Waterford is doing great things. His take on dishes—like a Spanish omelette served as a liquid in a ceramic egg—is so creative, and his burnt Basque cheesecake is the best I’ve ever had.
What makes the perfect dining experience?
It’s the magic combination of great food made with care and a warm, relaxed atmosphere. It’s what we strive for at Mezze and it’s something I’ve experienced at places like Michelin-starred Dede—done differently, of course, but with the same heart behind it.
Dvir ad Nicola will lead an engaging and interactive food demonstration, featuring a hands-on falafel and flatbread workshop at Dungarvan Brewing Company as part of Waterford Festival of Food on Friday, April 25.
