Politics, spies, and great food – here’s why you should visit Washington D.C.
Forget New York, Orlando and LA and put Washington D.C. to the top of your US travel wishlist, where you'll find a a unique blend of history, culture, and political significance that makes it a must-visit destination. When writer Édaein O' Connell travelled there, she thought she would be visiting a city in political turmoil, however the reality couldn't have been any different.
I arrived in Washington D.C. two days after former US President Donald Trump was shot in the ear during a campaign rally in Butler, Pennsylvania. Two days after I left, President Joe Biden withdrew from the 2024 presidential race after concerns continued to mount in the Democratic party and the voting electorate about his health and ability to win the election. All in all, amidst the turmoil, it was a fascinating time to visit the capital city of the United States. With the intensity of political proceedings in the country, a visit there could very well be spent in a hotel room glued to CNN because watching America right now is like watching a political thriller unfold on a movie screen. We can’t bear to watch but we can’t bear to look away either.
However, despite the drama, a country of over 330 million people is still churning away beneath the media circus. It’s a country that continues to work and move and constantly shifts with its political and societal tides. Cities are bustling with business, culture, entertainment and music and Washington D.C. is one of them. As an Irish tourist looking at their list of ultimate American cities to visit, Washington may not top the list. New York, Boston, Orlando and Los Angeles often take centre stage on travel plans, with the capital used as a quick stop on the map, but I discovered that Washington D.C. offers a unique blend of history, culture, and political significance that makes it a must-visit destination.
Locals will tell you many visitors spend two days in the city, utilising it as a weekend getaway, but in my opinion, 48 hours is not enough. To truly get a sense of Washington and what makes it spark, you need time and lots of it. Although the hub of the US government, the pace of the city is somewhat slow. It’s an early-to-bed, early-to-rise metropolis. People don’t rush like their New York counterparts. With a population of just over 670,000 people, Washington is small in stature. Its pastures are green and with a federal rule that limits most D.C. buildings to about 13 stories, it feels open and unrestricted. Even in the 38-degree summer heat, I didn’t feel confined as you would in a skyscraper-filled city.
Where to stay
Writing about it now, with the extreme temperatures and unrelenting political drama, my time in Washington sounds quite stressful. Thankfully, my lodgings were a cool and calm retreat. The Hay-Adams is one of the most historic and luxurious hotels in Washington D.C. Originally designed and built as a residential hotel in the 1920s, the hotel now has 124 refined guest rooms and 21 deluxe suites. Its location is also prime and it boasts panoramic views of the White House, Lafayette Square and St. John’s Church.
It’s the type of hotel where staff pre-empt your needs and deliver your desires before you even decide what you want. The rooms are classically designed, keeping old-world elements with elegant furnishings and timeless décor. The beds are exquisite and each room feels presidential. It was the perfect home to return to after a long day of gallery and museum visits.
Meanwhile, Forbes chose the hotel bar, aptly named Off the Record, as one of the World’s Best Hotel Bars and for good reason. Locally, it is known as downtown Washington D.C.’s best place “to be seen and not heard.” The bar is surrounded by caricatures of the city’s political elite and it’s no surprise that many White House employees make their way to the hotspot for an after-work cocktail. The drinks are delicious and the people watching is even better.
For me, the Hay-Adams is one of the best hotels I have ever stayed in and if you are planning a trip to the city, make it your vacation address.
What to see
If you are a history and culture buff, Washington D.C. will be a type of cultural heaven for you. The city has a myriad of museums and galleries to explore and your days will be filled with learnings and new insights into one of the most fascinating countries in the world. The museums are an incredible free amenity in the city but be sure to check whether you need to book a timed ticket before visiting one of the many captivating exhibitions on offer.
The Smithsonian Institution is a world-renowned museum and research complex that consists of 17 museums, galleries and even a zoo. Visitors can learn about everything from the origins of man and the future of flight to the history of art across multiple continents with more than 150 million objects, works of art and specimens to discover.
The National Museum of African American History and Culture is a must-visit. Situated at 14th Street and Constitution Avenue NW on the National Mall, the four-level museum opened on September 24, 2016. It stands as the only national museum exclusively dedicated to documenting African American life, history, and culture. It addresses nearly every aspect of the African American experience, covering the arts, slavery, the Civil Rights Movement, athletics and popular culture. A tour here is emotionally charged. It will not only sadden you but anger and shock you. However, I wouldn’t leave Washington D.C. without seeing it.
The National Museum of the American Indian is also another essential destination. It boasts one of the world’s most expansive collections of Native American objects, photographs, artefacts and media. More than 12,000 years of history are documented, covering 1,200 indigenous cultures from the Americas. Ongoing exhibitions at the museum include “Return to a Native Place: Algonquian Peoples of the Chesapeake,” which introduces visitors to the Native peoples of the Chesapeake Bay through maps, ceremonial objects, photographs, and interactive displays. It’s a segment of American history that many Europeans will not be privy to bar the odd reference to Pocahontas, but it’s a past we should most definitely know more about.
Meanwhile, for a dose of art, the National Portrait Gallery offers a rich and diverse collection of classic and contemporary portraits. Visitors can explore the lives and achievements of notable figures from American history through paintings, photographs, sculptures, and multimedia installations. A highlight is the ‘America’s Presidents’ exhibition which is the only complete collection of presidential portraits outside of the White House.
Where to visit
Washington D.C. is home to the president, meaning politics is part of its heartbeat. Visitors can immerse themselves in its dynamic environment by touring some of its iconic political landmarks such as The White House. However, there was one spectacle in particular that I was eager to see.
The U.S. Capitol Building is the seat of the United States Congress, the legislative branch of the federal government. It is one of the most iconic symbols of American Democracy. Sadly, due to the events of January 6, 2021, it gained a certain notoriety. On that day, the Capitol was violently breached by a mob seeking to overturn the results of the 2020 presidential election. It was an unprecedented attack and the events sparked widespread reflection on the state of American democracy, the importance of safeguarding democratic institutions, and the ongoing challenges of political polarisation in the United States.
The building is a feat of architecture on the inside and the outside, and a visit inside its walls feels like being transported into the beacon of history. A guided tour there will bring you to the Crypt which was hoped to place the remains of George and Martha Washington. However, their graves remained at Mount Vernon, and no one has been buried in the Capitol.
You also get the opportunity to view the Rotunda up close. The majestic structure was completed under the direction of Charles Bulfinch and was conceived in the age of neoclassicism and was intended to match the Pantheon. Glancing up, your eyes enjoy the feast of the painted ceiling by Constantino Brumidi. The creation was titled the ‘Apotheosis of Washington’ and depicts George Washington rising to the heavens in glory, flanked by female figures representing Liberty and Victory/Fame and surrounded by six groups of figures.
While you can’t visit the Senate and House galleries, it’s hard not to feel a sense of awe at standing in the centre of one of the most influential democracies in the world.
From the Capitol, I made my way to the truly stunning Library of Congress. This is the largest library in the world, with millions of books, films, videos, audio recordings, photographs, newspapers, maps and manuscripts. Not only is the library itself visually beautiful, but one of its current exhibitions ‘Collecting Memories’ is a feast for the senses.
Voice recordings, moving images, scrolls, diaries, manuscripts, prints, photographs, maps, books, and much more serve as sources of inspiration, encouraging the viewer to reflect on the intersections and differences between personal memory, collective memory, and recorded history. It delves into how cultures preserve and honour memory, commemorate the past, compile knowledge, construct collective histories, recount daily events, and document the individual. It’s showing until December 2025, and was a high point for me on the trip.
Washington D.C. has certainly seen a strange occurrence or two in its time and spies have been at the centre of it all. I was hesitant at first to partake in the Embassy Row Spy Tour as I wrongly presumed it would be a type of real-life Cluedo. However, it ended up being my top Washington D.C. activity. Founded by CIA veteran, Rosanna Minchew, Spyher offers espionage-themed tours and events inspired by the real-world experiences of intelligence professionals. The Embassy Row tour immerses you in espionage, examining both historical and recent suspicious deaths. Starting at Dupont Circle, the tour winds along Massachusetts Avenue, where the elegant mansions have served as residences for diplomats and spies throughout the years. Being a former CIA professional, Minchew shared her first-hand experiences as an agent, all the while explaining the history and the mystery of it all. Not only was it thrilling, but the tour was also a phenomenal way to explore more of the city.
Where to eat
Political centre? Of course. Cultural and historical hub? Most definitely. A foodie’s paradise? Surprisingly, yes. One of the most unexpected aspects of my trip to Washington D.C. was how exceptional the food scene was. From Mexican to Italian, the city is a thriving centre of culinary activity.
When it comes to restaurants, if it’s good enough for the Obamas, it’s good enough for me. The former president and first lady are big fans of L’ardente, a Mediterranean-style restaurant with a host of Italian favourites on its menu. Make sure to try its famous 40-layer lasagne and duck ravioli.
Another favourite of the Obamas is Oyamel Cocina Restaurant, where I had one of the best margaritas I have ever tasted and indulged in Tamel Verde.
Then for something more casual and American, Martin’s Tavern is an excellent choice. Founded in 1933 by former Major League Baseball player, “Billy” Martin, the tavern was a favourite among presidents. In fact, President John F. Kennedy proposed to Jacqueline Bouvier in Booth #3 (now called The Proposal Booth). I had the lump crab cakes – which are a family recipe Maryland-style since the 1930s – and haven’t stopped thinking about them since.
And so, I came away from Washington D.C. positively stuffed, educated and stimulated having absorbed a wealth of history, culture and unforgettable experiences.
I also departed the United States feeling more hopeful. Despite the political upheaval and uncertainty, the nation’s spirit endures, and every time I think America can’t surprise me, it proves me wrong.
Because Washington D.C. is the heart of the US and it continues to beat loudly and true. It’s a city of many tales and I got to experience all of them. The world keeps watching and we can’t bear to look away, but I believe that very soon it will be for all the right reasons.
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