A domestic destination like no other, we go behind the quaint facades to the far-flung corners of this craggy coastline. Colourful local shops, spirited pub stays and trendy coffee joints – these are the independent hotspots you won’t want to miss.
Delve a little deeper than the Airbnbs, slot machines and ice-cream stalls you might think of when you picture Donegal, and you’ll find a vigorous creative crew of artists, makers, bathers and bakers who call these sandy shores home. Their efforts make a visit to this rugged county an absolute must.
A real souvenir
For a real piece of Donegal, turn to its most exciting makers for a keepsake to treasure for years to come. Now in the hands of the second generation weaver, William McNutt, McNutt of Donegal creates colourful designs against the background of the rhythmic hum of looms and warpers. William can’t help but draw inspiration from the view out the mill windows, “the rugged coastline of Sheephaven Bay, rolling heather of Muckish Mountain and sandy shades of Downings Beach which surround us”.
Be sure to call in to the on-site craft shop. Properly cared for, there is no reason why these quality blankets couldn’t be passed on for generations. Believe us, McNutt’s timeless designs are the heirlooms your grandchildren will thank you for.
Founder of her eponymous design studio and part of a shared studio space called Cló & Co Print Studio outside Ramelton, there is no rest for Laura Buchanan, achieving modern, eye-popping designs that focus on reflection, nostalgia and play. “I enjoy hearing stories of old Irish traditions, which feeds into my work quite a bit,” she says. The Cló & Co workshops cover all manner of printing and are a must-do while in the area, so keep a close eye on their socials.
The Pear in Paper, a letterpress and linoprint studio created by Lynn Costello Erskine is known for its bold patterns and ingenious use of colour. “My main letterpress platen was built in 1872 and needs plenty of elbow grease to get it moving and printing! It is a real labour of love to bring this old print method back to life day after day.” Not only that, she also sells needle-punch pillows in her unique pared-back aesthetic, and papier-mâché pots made of her recycled waste paper from her studio in Donegal Craft Village.
After recently joining a collective of makers in Killybegs called Wild Atlantic Crafts, Maria Connolly has set to work on a new series of earthenware clay pieces from her garden studio. This latest work includes wall mounted fish. “The flat surface is ideal to apply my monoprints made from coloured slips, stencils and hand drawn mark making on newsprint,” explains Maria. She is hoping to relocate next year to her hometown of Gweedore. “The landscape there is breathtakingly beautiful, with an offshore island, magnificent sandy beaches and crystal clear waters that make you think you are on a Greek island in the Mediterranean.”
Mosey around
From indie concept stores selling design-driven homewares to a treasure trove second-hand store, make sure you’ve got room in the boot.
Working in northern England for several years, Lorraine Quinn returned home “searching for a slower pace of life” after the hustle and bustle of running several Italian restaurants. She hasn’t looked back since opening Harbour Road in Magheraclogher in June 2017, with a chic assortment of homeware. Expect to find some local goodies in the form of Donegal Natural Soap Company skincare, Coco Milis bean to bar chocolates, Carraig na Rón wooden crafts and Donegal Socks footwear. Lorraine encourages a trip to Teach Coll in Magheroarty before leaving the vicinity. “Overlooking Magheroarty beach, Inisbofin and Tory Islands, it’s one of our favourite local pubs.”
In the charming seaside village of Rathmullen, you’ll find Hardy’s Yard Antiques. This is the sort of gem an interiors lover dreams of stumbling across on their travels, but be warned, they are only open on Saturday afternoons. Whether you’re on the hunt for a truly unique gift for that lucky someone or feel like treating yourself and your home, there’s no doubt you’ll spend hours browsing every nook and cranny. Live music, refreshments and a festive atmosphere are sometimes found here in the summer months but if not, then why not toast your purchases at the Beachcomber Bar? Contact Dermot on 086 885 5048.
Fiona Dolan studied graphic design before pivoting towards the collaborative art space Buoys and Gulls in Bundoran. “I was amazingly lucky to find one of the only premises overlooking the ocean and off I went.” It houses artisan workspaces and a shop to sell their wares. Your visit will be made even sweeter with one of their self-proclaimed “A1 coffees” and signature fudge brownies. What is most impressive about this space is that it is a hub for the creative and sea-loving communities here. “There’s a strong bunch of personalities all over town,” proclaims Fiona. “I am a blow-in myself, and my friends have become like family. Great things happens when your life and friendships are tied in with the sea.”
Feeling peckish
The creative juices, so integral to this county, can also be found in a wealth of eateries serving the seasonal spoils and superb seafood.
Just a short stroll from Buoys and Gulls, you’ll find another impeccable brew at Foam café. Keep an eye on their socials for nights with guest chef Julian Farmer (@julianfarmer), who approaches food with an artistic sensibility and an emphasis on Eastern flavours, or simply enjoy some treats from Mór Sourdough.
Don’t let the surroundings of The Olde Glen Bar in Glen Village – the classic Irish pub – fool you into thinking your dinner will be presented without fanfare. Their four-course menu is beautifully considered and a feast for all the senses. Don’t worry if you overdo it, a night in Clara’s Cots B&B next door will set you right as rain.
Further up the coast in Downings, you’ll find Fisk. You can sense upon opening the door that the chefs here are excited by what is caught locally and grown seasonally. Expect the freshest fish tacos and prawn dumplings. While you’re out and about, keep an eye out for local products including Moksh Chai, replenishing plant proteins by Kelpman Ocean Blends, and small batch artisan Kombucha Na Dálaigh. Or head to The Blue Goat Ramelton for a one-stop-shop for artisan foodie buys.
Rest your head
Some much-needed escapism awaits with fresh air aplenty and postcard-perfect panoramas from every window from these accommodation options.
When you encounter an architectural beauty such as Lough Eske Castle, you can’t help but wish that these much-hallowed halls could talk. Get lost down wild walkways, laze about in spacious drawing rooms, hit the swimming pool or retreat to your sumptuous four-poster bed. The five-star surroundings notwithstanding, Cedars Restaurant is also without a doubt a selling point here, and also boasts a full vegan menu.
Corcreggan Mill is a charming cluster of lodgings that pairs traditional rusticity with whimsical touches. Think bedding down in a 150-year-old former railway carriage or “The Larry McQuaid”, a refurbished fishing trawler turned suite. Ideal for large group getaways, there are accommodation options to suit everyone.
Cameras at the ready, you would be hard pushed to find a more spectacular landscape to capture than Fanad Lighthouse. Choose from one of three charming former lighthouse keeper’s homes, all with unparalleled sea views. From €318 per house per night.
Shaking up the traditional guesthouse model is this design-led Breac House from Cathrine Burke and Niall Campbell. Interiors are meticulously sleek and showcase some of the country’s most impressive designers. Days here should be spent at Trá Mór beach, a stunning secluded shoreline just 15 minutes on foot from the house.
This feature originally appeared in the spring/summer 2024 issue of IMAGE Interiors. Have you thought about becoming a subscriber? Find out more, and sign up here.
