The Pocketbook: Creative consultant Ruth Walsh’s guide to Amsterdam

Ruth Walsh—though you may know her better as Ruthy Ruby—has been sharing her journey through life online for years now, lending an effortlessly chic touch of whimsy to our feeds daily. From Cork to New York and Dublin to Amsterdam, the creative public relations consultant, e-commerce manager, and content creator has a knack for capturing the spirit of a city with her playful eye for detail.

Ruth moved to Amsterdam at the start of 2022 with her other half, Jerry, in order to escape the relentless lockdowns in Ireland. With friends on the ground assuring them that life was continuing as normal over there and the promise of good times ahead, they packed their bags and took the plunge into Amsterdam living, which, according to Ruth, comes with a renewed sense of fun.

That fun, coupled with the rich culture, history and diversity made it very easy to fall head over heels for the city. “There is always something to discover,” Ruth says of the magic of Amsterdam. “Be it the history of the streets, the pubs, or the fact you could be having dinner in a building that dates back to the 16th Century. Amsterdam is the most famous UNESCO World Heritage site, so all of the old houses and state buildings are still intact, which adds a level of gilded charm to the place.”

With two and a half years spent living abroad under their belt, the claustrophobia of living in a beautiful but tiny city has led Ruth and Jerry back to Irish shores. “It’s quite difficult to find a place to live here if you don’t pay an agent to find you an apartment,” Ruth says, “So we’re hoping to make the move home in the spring of 2025. We’re craving the Irish countryside and some West of Ireland magic.”

Read on for Ruth Walsh’s guide to Amsterdam…

Breakfast/Lunch

Little Collins on Bilderdijkstraat in West. Get the lamb and beef mince dish and a margarita. I’ve never had a better marg than in this place.

Dinner

Kikkie van de Prinsensluis — Get the cheeseburger and fries (best cheese burger I’ve ever had).

Cantine de Caron has a beautiful setting in a huge old power plant. Expect great music, even better food and really pleasant service.

Fancy dinners that are well worth your money

Restaurant de Utrechtstedwarstafel

This is a quirky fine dining restaurant located just outside the heart of the city centre. There are only seven tables, one sitting per evening and expect to pass at least 4.5 hours there eating some of the most delicious food that you can choose a wine pairing with. The owner is the head waiter and his dog, Chiara, just chills there and comes looking for the odd rub. Such a unique experience.

Restaurant de Kas

This place is insane. They harvest the food grown on site in the morning before service. The setting is expansive and the service is exquisite. It feels like there is no roof or ceiling, and there is so much breathing room in there to just sit and enjoy your meals. I can’t recommend this enough. It’s about a 20 minute bike from the city centre.

Twee Prinsen on Prinsengracht in Jordaan is the place to be. It’s arguably the best people watching spot, and they have some really delicious natural wines and small plates.

Cafe de Wetering is one of hundreds of brown bars here in Amsterdam. It’s a charming wooden bar upstairs that has a huge 12-seater table smack back in the centre of the room. There is a roaring fire behind you and some board games. The staff are lovely and there is a great wine selection.

Café Tijssen has my heart and I always love hanging out here. There’s been many a night me and my friends have had way too much fun in there. It’s a really lively Dutch bar that plays great music as the evening goes on. It’s also a great place to get the local delicacy, Bitterballen. Definitely try the beef chips, too.

If you are in Amsterdam, you need to go to the weekly markets. They are such an experience. There is a moment you will have where you feel like you are on the set of Gilmore Girls.

The old parts of Amsterdam have a very storybook feel to them that’s really comforting but also unbelievable. Sometimes I’m surrounded by all these perfect looking people buying shiny fruit and perfectly puffy bread smiling and laughing and I’m just like wow. This place is mad.

Noordermarkt is on Saturdays and Mondays in Jordaan, and there is everything on offer from fruit and veg to vintage jackets and honey. Westergas Market is on every first Sunday of the month. Brilliant multi-cultural food trucks and great antique shopping in a beautiful setting.

Amstelveld Plant Market is on every Monday and a really lovely place to get some flowers and photosynthesise. IJ Hallen — Once a month, the biggest flea market in Europe takes hold of Amsterdam Noord. You can get the free ferry over on your bike or the metro. Epic market with really unusual finds.