Cork native Erica Bracken has been falling in love with life in Lisbon for the past three years now, and we’ve asked her to share an insider’s guide to the city for all the best places to eat, drink, shop and see on your next visit.
Qualified yoga teacher and freelance PR and marketing consultant Erica Bracken hails from the Cork countryside and had been living in Dublin city for five long years when the pandemic hit. Moving back home during lockdown for a three-week period that ended up lasting two and a half years, Erica made the decision to work remotely from Lisbon for a month in 2022, and as soon as she arrived, she knew it was where she wanted to be.
Making the move permanent in 2023, Erica’s life, community and happiness have been expanding tenfold since she first began calling Lisbon home. Though it was a struggle to find an apartment within her budget, she got there in the end, and she’s working in a local yoga studio—BARAZA Yoga—teaching private classes and teaching online.
When asked what it was that made her fall in love with life in Lisbon, Erica says: “One of the most beautiful things about Lisbon is the light, it’s almost golden, reflecting off the tiled buildings, white-paved streets, and the River Tagus (Rio Tejo). The whole city seems to glow.”
Erica tells us that being social feels a lot more effortless and spontaneous in Lisbon. “There’s a relaxed atmosphere, people are easygoing, and mornings start slow. There are also so many cafés, restaurants, and bars to explore in a relatively small radius,” she says.
“And then there’s the nature. Whether it’s the ocean, the hills, the river, or the parks, Lisbon has this perfect balance between city energy and space to breathe. And, of course, the weather. It’s a near-constant invitation to be outside, soaking the city’s magic.”
WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast/Lunch
For a great breakfast, brunch, or lunch, check out Albi, Buna, Tact, Monka, Tiffin, Marquise, Dedes, Neighbourhood, Curva, The Layers and Café Pequeno. For a solid, healthy lunch, Honest Greens is a reliable choice. If you’re after hidden coffee-only gems, seek out Calmo, Lapso, and Dramático.
Dinner
For dinner, if you’re in the mood for modern small plates cooking with local flavours and ingredients and a great atmosphere, head to Tricky’s, Boavista Social Club, Parra, or Tasca Pete. For cosy comfort food, you can’t go wrong with Astro Ramen, Panda Ramen, or Dallas Burgers. Aheste is an incredible Turkish culinary experience, and they do an amazing Turkish brunch spread too. Newer spots to try include O Palmeiral, La Joya, and YoiZaru Izakaya.
If you want a taste of traditional Portuguese cuisine, go to a classic tasca – some of my favourites are O Argeos, Zapata, Tom La Ca Da, and Churrasqueira da Paz.
WHERE TO STAY
Look for AirBnbs in quieter but still close to the centre areas like Lapa, Estrela, Sao Bento and Principe Real. For luxury boutique hotels, Toc Toc Toc has a great reputation. For a relatively affordable city centre, My Story Hotel Tejo is a great location. Even more affordable, Selina Secret Garden Hostel. On the other end of the spectrum, there’s Palácio Príncipe Real. I met the owners recently and it sounds like a stay there would be utterly exquisite.
WHERE TO WORK FROM
Lisbon has plenty of co-working spaces, including Tribe Social, Second Home and Heden. You usually pay a monthly fee or can rent a space as needed.
An increasing number of cafés and restaurants don’t allow laptops, but a few that do include The Venue, Honest Greens, WelWell, Thank You Mama, Curva, and Fable. Many have specially designated areas or tables for laptops.
For a more unique work setting, check out Biblioteca Camões, a beautiful public library with stunning Tagus River views and original design details, making it an inspiring place to get things done.
WHERE TO DRINK
The hottest tip I have for you is Bodega Chafa, Lisbon’s first and only mezcal bar. It’s co-owned by my friend Corey, so I’ve got the inside scoop. Due to open in spring of this year, it’s going to be a going to be a tiny, dark, mischievous place for delicious drinks, with an equally tiny but banging taco menu.
If you’re after more cocktails, try The Royal Vessel, Vago, or Cascavel.
For wine, Cave da Estrela and Pinot Bar are two gems near Jardim da Estrela. Over at Praça das Flores, grab a glass from Black Sheep or Magnolia – you can even bring it into the square – other great wine bars to check out are Insaciável, By the Wine, Vino Vero, and RUDE.
WHERE TO SWIM AND SOAK UP THE SUN
One of the best things about Lisbon is how close it is to so many beaches. There are two main options for a beach day.
The first is to take the train directly from the city centre at Cais do Sodré or Santos station and travel along the Linha de Cascais. You can ride all the way to Cascais or stop at one of the beaches along the way like Praia de Carcavelos or Praia do Estoril. A return ticket costs less than €3. You can also take a taxi from Cascais to Praia do Guincho, a stunning wild beach known for its strong Atlantic winds. If Guincho is your main destination, driving from Lisbon is usually the better option.
The second option is to cross the 25 de Abril Bridge, the iconic red suspension bridge, and head to Costa da Caparica, a breathtaking 10-kilometre stretch of white sand that feels like the Algarve. The further you go from Caparica town, the quieter and more untouched the beaches become. A great way to round off a visit is with a fresh fish lunch at one of the beachside tascas — Restaurante Praia do Rei is a favourite.
If you’re taking public transport, buses from Lisbon to Caparica take about 30 minutes, or you can take a ferry across the river and then a taxi. By car or taxi, it’s around a 30-minute drive from the city centre.
BEST KEPT SECRETS
Jardim do Torel is a peaceful hilltop park with sweeping city views without the usual crowds you’ll find at more popular miradouros. It’s a perfect spot to relax with a book or a coffee, and in summer, there’s an outdoor lido where you can sunbathe and go for a refreshing dip when it’s sweltering in the city, making it an even better hidden gem.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Okay, first things first, make sure to schedule a yoga practice with me! I teach at BARAZA Yoga, a stunning studio where you can reset, move, and breathe after travelling. After yoga, you’ll be energised and ready to soak up the magic of Lisbon — and one of the best ways to do that is simply by wandering.
Find a café, sit back, and watch the world go by. Stroll through one (or all) of the city’s leafy parks – Jardim da Estrela is a classic, while Tapada das Necessidades is a quieter, lesser-known gem. Along the way, stop at the many Quiosques (kiosks), where you’ll always find the staples: coffee, beer, ice cream, wine and even cocktails.
Lisbon is built on seven hills, which means plenty of miradouros (viewpoints) offering sweeping city views. They’re especially magical at sunset – two of my favourites are Miradouro de Santa Catarina and Miradouro da Senhora do Monte.
For a little extra culture, add the Botanical Garden in Príncipe Real, the Gulbenkian Museum and Gardens, and the Lisbon Tile Museum to your list. I also recently did a sunset river cruise with Lisbon Sail when my dad visited — a beautiful way to get a different perspective of the city from the river.
WHERE TO SHOP
You could easily spend an afternoon—or even a whole day—exploring Lisbon’s vintage shopping scene. Many of my favourites are clustered around São Bento, including Arquivos and AQ2 (sister stores side by side), Third Thrift Store, Pink Heart Vintage, Mess Vintage and Clube Royale.
If you’re venturing further, check out A Outra Face da Lua, Amor Fati and Malala Vintage. For a bookish detour, Salted, Fable and Well Read are brilliantly curated bookshops worth a visit.
YOU CAN’T LEAVE LISBON WITHOUT
Going to Praca da Flores. Sit in this pretty square at any time of the day or night to people-watch, read a book, eat ice cream and drink wine. If you’re lucky, there will be some live music to create the perfect movie-esque atmosphere that will have you thinking, “I could see myself living here.”
Follow Erica on Instagram @erica_bracken for more Lisbon insights.
