Hotel review: Dunmore House is a hidden West Cork gem

After a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Dublin, the journey to Dunmore House culminates in a scenic approach that makes every minute spent on the road worthwhile. As I arrive at the start of the May bank holiday weekend, my initial glimpse of the hotel—rising like a ship anchored against the Cork coastline overlooking the vast Atlantic —promises a serene escape for a tired mum.

You can tell the hotel is family-owned from the minute you arrive. The atmosphere is warm, casual and charming and I’m immediately drawn to the inviting fireplace in the lobby (an ideal spot for a glass of wine and some people watching). It’s at that moment that the tone is set for a two night stay that is characterised by comfort and ease. My room, though potentially a little modest in decor and lacking a bath, has an exceptionally comfy bed and all the modern amenities you could want including high-speed Wi-Fi, Netflix, Disney and Amazon Prime; and an all important Nespresso machine. The bathroom is stocked with VOYA toiletries in refillable containers, emphasising Dunmore House Hotel’s admirable commitment to sustainability and Irish, local produce. The real highlight, however, is the uninterrupted sea view. Opening the window to the sound of waves lapping against the shore just below me Is bliss, pure and simple.

The relatively small grounds around the hotel hold much more than I expect at first glance including an Ocean Garden which grows a significant portion of the produce used in the Adrift restaurant. The garden and terrace are dotted with chairs and hammocks, inviting guests to unwind while gazing across the Atlantic—a truly gorgeous and tranquil setting.

Food and drink

Dining at Dunmore House is an exceptional experience. The bar offers casual fare; I found the buttery garlic crab claws with rosemary chips and a cold glass of white wine particularly delightful on my first night. Adrift Restaurant, where guests can enjoy breakfast and dinner, boasts stunning panoramic views that are only rivalled by the food served. Breakfast includes eggs from the hotel’s own chickens with Clonakilty Black Pudding—made only five minutes up the road—and my first taste of Carrageen Moss, which is surprisingly delicious (a bit like panacotta if you are curious!). Dinner is a showcase of local flavours, from home-baked bread with garden-sourced pesto; to lobster bisque from “the bay just around the corner”. For my main I have nettle and ricotta ravioli, which again is sourced from the garden. It all culminates in a perfectly executed tiramisu. The wine menu is extensive and features all the favourites and service is impeccable, with staff going out of their way to ensure an enjoyable dining experience.

Things to do

The hotel’s location is ideal for people wanting to explore the coastline, especially the beaches. There are ten pristine beaches within a ten minute drive of the hotel. I spent the weekend visiting nearby beaches like Inchedoney, Red Strand, Long Strand and Duneen. The Blue Flag beach at Inchydoney can be seen directly across Clonakilty Bay from Dunmore House, it makes the perfect sunset walk and there’s a lovely walk around the dunes at the end of the far beach at the other side of the Inchydoney Hotel too, if you want to extend your stroll. If it’s a sunny day, Duneen is a beautiful sheltered cove only a few minutes from the hotel and is the perfect place for a dip. Red Strand is just around the corner and on the day of my visit, had a portable sauna parked on the strand. Long Strand is a little further, at a 15 minute drive, but combine it with a walk up to The High Cross at CastleFreke and lunch at The Fish Basket (which serves the most delicious, fresh fish and chips) and you have the perfect Cork day.

Clonakilty town is only a nine minute drive away with friendly cafes and unique shops. I visit The Cafe on The Lane which has gorgeous, quirky decor and excellent coffee, and then pop into Grasshopper Kidswear next door, which stocks extremely cool Danish and Swedish kids clothes you won’t see anywhere else.

Dunmore House Hotel is a hidden gem, woven into the landscape and lifestyle of its beautiful coastal setting. Whether you’re dog people looking to spend a weekend in nature (dogs are welcome guests at the hotel); a family looking to build sandcastles and paddle in the surf, or a foodie searching for a new adventure, this hotel will welcome you with open arms.

This article was originally published in May 2024.