We meet the makers, creators, producers and chefs who are the driving force behind Co Clare’s flourishing creative scene
Uncover the best this famous coastline has to offer and take a trip out west this summer.
For decades, this craggy coastline has attracted those in search of surf. Nowadays, it’s increasingly a destination for those looking for a different kind of break – one designed for those who appreciate something unique, from pieces for the home to exceptional produce, or just a chance to soak up the creative atmosphere.
This is thanks to a crop of new craft schools full of talent keen to share their skills, such as Common Knowledge and the highly anticipated project from master maker Sam Gleeson and his brilliant partner, the chef Niamh Fox. Watch this space.
One such endeavour has been taken on by Letterpress Printer, Conor Burke at the The Gentian Press, who is putting funding from The Arts Council to good use in Lisdoonvarna.
Opening as a multidisciplinary workspace, it will house a gallery, several artist studios and most impressively, an ever-growing array of printing presses and type, dating from the 1940s to 1960s.
Conor is aiming for this space to be as accessible as possible. “I want to educate and empower people to do their own work on this equipment and hopefully, it will light a fire in their belly like it did in mine.”
Just along the Corkscrew Hill, you’ll find Gregans Castle Hotel with its masterful use of Victorian hues – mustard, lead grey and eau de nil green, Connemara marble floors and characterful art collection.
In their dining room overlooking the Burren with its enchanting Margo Banks-adorned walls, you will find heavenly fare from head chef Robbie McCauley. Think top quality ingredients that sing, such as Doonbeg crab or Burren shorthorn and combinations like cultured cream and rhubarb paired with ginger and sushi rice to resounding success.
From here, head north along Black Head for a further feed of Flaggy Shore Oysters at Linnane’s Lobster Bar, found on the same harbour and owned by Conor Graham and Mark Commins. They have the Burren to thank for their particularly delectable oysters – its underwater rivers offer mineral-rich water and heat-absorbing limestone, keeping the bay warm enough so they do not hibernate over winter.
“We’ve seen the popularity of this delicacy skyrocket in the restaurant in the last year,” shares Conor with an air of pride. It is for this reason they are modernising and minimising the menu with a focus on their star seafood this season, making it a must-visit.
No creative guide to North Clare is complete without mention of Ennistymon, which makes up for its lack of coastal clout with a main street of proudly independent and family-run shops and eateries.
Highlights include The Aloe Tree, a health food store with a tasteful bohemian collection of gifts, and Byrnes, which boasts the best falls-side terrace in town on which to enjoy excellent value flavoursome grub, washed down with a negroni on sunny evenings. It’s also one for interior lovers, who will be eyeing up their next purchase as they dine in this restaurant-cum-antique shop.
“It reminds me of my hometown Westport, before it really started to develop and become more clean-cut. Ennistymon is still a little rough around the edges, which I like. It retains a lot of charm and small-town community.” Éamonn O’Sullivan describes his new home.
Always interested in craft, when the opportunity arose after graduating, he spent a few months trying different things out. “I made chairs, baskets and various other items. Spoon carving was one that really kept me interested.” These days, Éamonn is the best whittler these shores have to offer. Booking one of his intimate classes, which run all summer, is a sure-fire way of making a future family heirloom.
Baked goods are breaking out as new local delicacies. Don’t leave Ennistymon without a French crêpe at Oh La La or a slice of Unglert’s scrumptious apple strudel. Naomi Ní Chatháin’s gloriously gooey cookies are available at The Cheese Press, while a fresh focaccia sandwich at the newly-opened The Milk Step is savoury heaven.
The crowning jewel of the baking scene is Hugo’s, found in neighbouring Lahinch. Affectionately known by locals as “Queue-go’s”, this self-taught sourdough specialist serves up loaves like no other and arguably the best pastéis de nata outside of Lisbon. Get there early to avoid disappointment.
Right next door, you’ll find the über-stylish surf shop The Green Room, stocking a perfectly curated collection of covetable brands from Yeti to Rhythm. Run by brothers Stefan and Dan Skajarowski, the latter also plays co-host with his partner Ann Marie O’Mahony at the shipping container tiny-home-stay Skippy’s Shack.
Both Dan and Ann Marie are wave enthusiasts so it’s little wonder that their design inspiration came from coastal towns in California, Tasmania and New Zealand. Ann Marie adds, “I’ve always been fascinated by great use of small spaces and dream of jetting off to Topanga Canyon most months.”
It’s a space with real personality, thanks to the impeccable taste of its creators, championing plywood with an assemblage of key Irish artisanal pieces, including Christien Van Bussel’s colour block mugs and enamelware finds from local hardware shop James Devitt. An all-time dream to create, it is not just the design process that has been a highlight for Ann Marie, but also the feedback.
“I love hearing about people’s experience of the container and our little community. It always reignites my love for both. I’ve never lived anywhere so welcoming and fun. We joke and call it Tír na nÓg.”
Visiting foodies to the area will want to stock up on the tastiest organic vegetables from Moy Hill Farm, foraged pickles from Thalli Foods, creamy St Tola Goat’s Cheese and preserves that pack a punch from Barrtrá Seafood Restaurant. Just a few minutes’ drive south along the coast from Lahinch, this restaurant is a favourite among locals for its mystery menus and excellent wine.
Innovation, collaboration and inspiration seem to saturate the salty air here on the west coast of Clare. We can’t wait to see what this cheerful community will create next.
Photography: Melanie Mullan
This feature originally appeared in the spring/summer 2023 issue of IMAGE Interiors. Have you thought about becoming a subscriber? Find out more, and sign up here.
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