What to bake this weekend: Rainbow cookie loaf cake

The rainbow cookie is, indisputably, truly, really at the top of the Italian cookie pyramid. And by pyramid, I mean tray. One of my favourite pastimes is going around to different bakeries to taste their versions — all of them are delicious, some are an absolute masterpiece (this cookie is reason enough to get yourself to Ciao, Gloria, my friend Renato’s bakery in Brooklyn). I especially love eating them at bakeries because they are tedious and time-consuming to make at home.

Since the classic cookie is already a cross between cookie and cake, I decided to blow things up and lean into the cake of it all. This loaf cake has all the taste and texture of a rainbow cookie but is much easier and on a thrilling scale for those of us who can never have enough!

Rainbow cookie loaf cake
Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients

For the loaf:

• Nonstick cooking spray
• 6 tablespoons almond paste, at room temperature
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 cup sugar
• 4 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon almond extract
• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 11/2 cups all-purpose flour
• Green and red food colouring
• 1/2 cup seedless raspberry jam
• 1/2 cup apricot jam

 

For the icing

• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 4 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped

 

Method

 To make the loaf:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat three 9 x 5-inch loaf pans with nonstick spray (see note). Fold three pieces of parchment paper in half lengthwise and set one in each loaf pan so that the ends of parchment are sticking out of the pan (this will make it easy to lift the cakes out later). Coat the parchment with nonstick spray as well.
2. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle (or a large bowl if using a handheld mixer), beat the almond paste on low speed until mostly smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the butter and sugar and beat on medium until a light and fluffy mixture forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Stop to scrape down the sides, then return to medium speed. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until incorporated before adding the next. Add the almond extract and milk and beat until just incorporated. Stop to scrape down the sides again, then add the salt, baking powder, and flour. Beat on low until the flour is almost combined, about 1 minute, then use a rubber spatula to finish mixing.
3. Divide the batter evenly among three medium bowls. Stir 10 drops of green food coloring into one bowl and 10 drops of red food coloring into another. Keep one bowl plain. Scrape the batter into the prepared loaf pans, smoothing out the tops. Bake for about 20 minutes, until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean. (The edges will be golden brown, but we’ll take care of those later!) Remove from the oven and let cool completely in the pans, about 1 hour.
4. Lay out a large piece of cling wrap on a work surface. Use the parchment to lift the loaves out of the pans. Set the green loaf on the cling wrap. Spread the raspberry jam over one side of the loaf, then set the white loaf on top. Spread the apricot jam on top of the white loaf, then set the red loaf on top. Tightly wrap the loaves in the cling wrap, then transfer the stack back to a loaf pan. Set a second loaf pan on top and use cans to weigh it down. Transfer to the refrigerator to chill overnight or up to 24 hours.
5. Remove the loaf from the refrigerator, discard the cling wrap, and set on a cutting board with the red layer on top. Trim about 1/4 inch from all sides of the loaf to make a perfect rectangle. Set a wire rack on top of a sheet pan and place the loaf on the rack.

To make the icing:

1. In a small saucepan, heat the cream over medium heat. As soon as bubbles begin to form around the edges, remove the pan from the heat. Add the chopped chocolate and let it sit for 10 minutes, then whisk until smooth. Use a rubber spatula to smooth the frosting on all sides of the loaf except the bottom, finishing with the top. Smooth the edges, then, if you like, use a fork to squiggle lines on the top of the loaf. Use two large spatulas to transfer the frosted loaf to a cutting board.
2. Return the loaf to the refrigerator for about 30 minutes, until the chocolate is set. Cut the loaf into slices and serve. Store leftovers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Reprinted with permission from Let’s Eat: 101 Recipes to Fill Your Heart & Home by Dan Pelosi © 2023. Published by Union Square & Co. Photography © Andrew Bui.