Wine manager at Hawksmoor Sinéad McCarthy on her life in food

Growing up with a real grá for food, Sinéad studied Nutritional Sciences at UCC and continued to waitress throughout university. An interest in the world of wine was quickly piqued, and during her time spent working at Chapter One, she took her wine exams and began the next phase of her career.

At Hawksmoor, Sinéad has curated the wine list to perfection, and is ready and on hand to talk you through it, whether you’re a total newbie or true aficionado. Here, she shares her life in food…

What are your earliest memories of food?

According to my parents, they had to put a child-lock on the fridge when I was a toddler because I would steal a block of cheese out of it and walk around eating Charleville cheddar like it was an apple. No regrets.

How would you describe your relationship with food?

I think I have a pretty balanced relationship with food. I studied Nutritional Sciences in UCC, which gave me a good understanding of food and how it breaks down into macro and micronutrients. I try not to get bogged down with calories, instead I aim to eat balanced meals.

What was the first meal you learned to cook?

Probably the traditional Friday evening ‘empty-the-fridge-omelette’ with oven chips. It was my dad’s specialty. Still is!

How did food become a part of your career?

My aunt and uncle are chefs and I started waitressing for them at catering events when I was around 14 or 15 years old. I continued waitressing through university and for a couple of years after, but I only really started to see a career in hospitality when I began working in Chapter One in 2018. Owner of Chapter One at the time, Ross Lewis, was a huge advocate for education and supported me in my wine exams while working there.

What’s your go-to breakfast?

Oats, milled flaxseed, a teaspoon of peanut butter, chopped dates and kefir over the top. Tastes like a dessert but is packed with nutrients and keeps me full.

If you’re impressing friends and family at a dinner party, what are you serving up?

Time-off work is sacred, so I like to keep food simple so I can spend more time with my friends and family. Most recently, I cooked a spatchcocked chicken on the bbq served with potato salad, couscous salad with peppers and olives, and a rocket salad with lemon, olive oil and grated Cais na Tire cheese. Magnum of Pet Nat to wash it all down.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

Currently, I’m getting a lot of inspiration from Emily Mariko, who is a TikTok/Instagram influencer. She cooks simple, healthy meals and focuses on seasonal produce. The videos she makes are so relaxing to watch as well.

What would your last meal on earth be?

Foie Gras Royale by Mickael Viljanen – foie gras parfait with pieces of smoked eel, grapes, caramelised walnuts and green apple sorbet. I’ve had this dish in many iterations over the years in The Greenhouse and Chapter One, and it has always blown me away.

What’s the go-to quick meal you cook when you’re tired and hungry?

Pasta with chopped rashers, a few frozen peas, minced garlic, and a spoon of Philadelphia cheese. So easy and satisfying after a long shift. I also like to keep some Fit Foods by Dublin Meat Company in the fridge to try and stop myself from ordering takeaway.

Sweet or savoury?

Definitely savoury. Give me that cheeseboard at the end of a meal.

Favourite restaurant in Ireland?

The three best meals I’ve had in the last year or so were at The Glass Curtain in Cork, Campagne in Kilkenny and Mamó in Howth. I can’t choose between them, they were all so good – just generous, delicious food, great service and interesting wine lists.

Best coffee in Ireland?

I’m definitely not a coffee connoisseur, but we recently bought some from Coffee House Lane at Bloom Festival and have been loving it. I also love the Momentum Blend from 3fe.

What are your thoughts on the Irish foodie scene?

The Irish food (and beverage) scene in Ireland is full to the brim with passionate, accomplished people and it is a privilege to be a part of the community.

What’s your favourite thing about cooking?

It is almost like meditation for me – time spent away from phones, it’s tactile, and you have to be present or you might mess it up! It is an act of service and a way for me to show love to friends and family.

What does food — sitting down to a meal with friends, mindfully preparing a meal, nourishment, etc — mean to you?

For me, sitting down to a meal with friends and family is an essential part of living a fulfilling life. It wasn’t until the pandemic that I realised this, when the option wasn’t there. Now, I appreciate those times more than ever.

Food for thought — Is there room for improvement within the Irish food/restaurant/hospitality scene?

Of course! There is always room for improvement. One thing that is on my mind, and I think on the minds of many others, is how to operate a senior management role within hospitality and have a family. These roles most likely need to be reimagined to include flexible schedules so that future (and current) parents do not feel the need to give up a career they love.

Chef’s kiss — Tell us about one standout foodie experience you’ve had recently.

When in London training for my new role at Hawksmoor, I had dinner with some new colleagues at The Red Lion & Sun Gastropub in Highgate. Full roast suckling pig with all the trimmings. Just so delicious.

Compliments to the chef — Now’s your chance to sing the praises of a talented chef, beloved restaurant or particularly talented foodie family member.

Sarah and Liam Brennan, my aunt and uncle, gave me a start in hospitality at a young age and have been incredibly supportive of me and my career over the years. For a long time, they had their own catering business and coffee shop in Golden, Tipperary called ‘Slice’. Sarah is an amazing baker and does incredible occasion cakes. Their Instagram is @slice_by_brennan_catering.

Secret ingredient — What, in your estimation, makes the perfect dining experience?

Relaxed, happy and knowledgeable staff. Also, comfy chairs, the right lighting, nice music, and the temperature of the room needs to be just-so. These are the small things that can make or break a night in a restaurant, in my opinion.