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Wintering well: ‘This five-star Austrian ski resort is truly world-class’

Wintering well: ‘This five-star Austrian ski resort is truly world-class’


by Lizzie Gore-Grimes
06th Dec 2023

The five-star Naturhotel Forsthofgut, in Austria’s little-known ski resort of Leogang, combines a heady mix of Austrian Alps Gemutlichkeit and Japanese Zen, to create a truly world-class wellness, ski and family-friendly resort.

I wouldn’t agree with the Victorians on many things but they were definitely on to something when it came to their dogged belief in “taking the air” and retreating to high altitude sanitariums for the general relief of “nerves”. After a long weekend immersed in the snow-capped surrounds of Austria’s Naturhotel Forsthofgut, I’m a total convert.

There is something really special about this place. Owned and run by the same family – the Schmucks – since the 1600s; the estate has been passed down and enhanced by each generation. And don’t be fooled by the family name, a savvier set of hoteliers you’d struggle to find. Today, thanks to a whopping €12-million lockdown makeover, current owners Christoph and Christina Schmuck have elevated the resort to off-the-charts status.

Usually, if someone mentions the words “family-friendly” and “resort” in the same sentence you picture Butlins in Bognor Regis and mentally run a mile. Not here. What they have achieved breaks the mould. With its compelling blend of traditional Von Trapp Austrian comforts (lots of leather, loden and pale wood) and Zen-like, pared-back Japanese-style touches, they’ve created a spirit-soothing sanctuary marked by good taste at every turn.

SKI IN, SKI OUT

As you glide down the final stretch of the blue run (that brings you straight to the hotel door) glance up and you’ll see the steam rising from the hotel’s WaldSpa heated infinity pool that overlooks the ski run below; it doesn’t get much more luxurious than that. As ski resorts go, at just 788 metres above sea level, Leogang is not snow-guarantee high, but it is linked by a super slick network of lifts to the extensive Saalbach-Hinterglemm ski area. As Austria’s second largest ski area, the region caters perfectly for skiers of all levels and experience. Coupled with its ski-in-ski-out status, the hotel also offers ski rental and ski school booking on site in the hotel, ensuring every ounce of the usual ski-admin tedium has been removed. And while, die-hard apres-skiers won’t find the sleepy village of Leogang up to much after hours, there’s plenty of post-ski party bars up the mountain.

THERAPEUTIC INDULGENCE

Following the 2020 upgrade, the hotel’s WaldSPA now offers 5,700 square metres of hi-spec healing and every manner of therapeutic indulgence, including a natural swimming lake, with adjacent Onsen pool – kept at a delectable 42ºC – so you can steam in your bikini as the snow drifts down and settles on the half-frozen lake. The spa also offers a number of different sauna options including a stunning 35-square-metre Finnish lake sauna. (“Textile-free” nudity is the norm in Austria so leave your inhibitions at home). Added to all this spa goodness, the resort also offers circuit training, yoga, power walking, HIIT classes and more, while also making the most of the surrounding Leoganger-Steinberg peaks with guided walks, outdoor mountain yoga, tennis and biking in the spring.

FIVE-STAR FAMILY FUN

I felt suitably guilty when we arrived, child-free, and realised just how much they have on offer for kids here. The hotel boasts a completely separate family-friendly 21-metre pool, spa and water play area, boasting a fantastical 70-metre-long waterslide that looks like something out of The Crystal Maze, twirling through three floors of Amazonian greenery.
While outdoors, the resort encompasses a children’s pet farm, playground and arts and crafts cottage. There’s a full kids’ club and workshop programme, as well as a dedicated family dining room. I couldn’t think of a better choice for a mixed generation family group.

EAT WELL, FEEL WELL

It’s worth noting, the hotel operates almost exclusively on a full-board basis – and the food is superb. They take great pride in their Forsthofgut Cuisine programme, offering an R50 menu (where ingredients are sourced within a 50-kilometre radius), plenty of vegan offerings and everything else inspired by Alpine-Mediterranean flavours. Afternoon “Strudel Time”, from 3-5pm, is also not to be missed. While those who prefer to go a la carte, will not be disappointed; the hotel also offers fine-dining Austrian Restaurant 1617 and delectable Japanese dining at Restaurant Mizumi.

It’s like Hotel California’s dreamy snow-capped doppelganger; check in here and you might genuinely never leave.

Winter Wellness packages start from €930 per person, all inclusive, for 3 nights, visit forsthofgut.at for full details. Double rooms, full board, (including breakfast, afternoon snack and 5-course dinner) start from €840 (high season), €560 mid season and €480 low season) for a one- or two-night stay per room. See more at forsthofgut.at.

IMAGE Winter 2023

The Winter issue of IMAGE is here, and festive sparkles are on our mind, from our fashion shoot full of party-ready pieces to the home of jeweller Chupi Sweetman-Durney which is full of glinting gold. Plus, we learn how to make the most of festive leftovers, and are planning a winter break to remember. Plus: * Big knits * Cool corduroy * In studio with Pearl Reddington * Audrey Hepburn’s Irish connections * Confidence at work * A Kilimanjaro adventure * Beauty gifts to give yourself * Practical magic * A ski retreat with a difference * Weekend escapes *  and so much more…

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