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There are scenes of autumnal beauty on our doorstep which rival even the famous “Fall” turning leaves of New England. The hike from Glendalough over the mountains to Glenmalure Valley must be one of the most spectacular in Ireland at any time of the year, but it is possibly at its most beautiful right now, in autumn, because of the kaleidoscopic colours.
The best route is from the lower lake in Glendalough where the first part of the journey is through a forest of hardwood trees of oak and beech. We were a party of six most of whom had never tackled a hike like this, so this section being flat and atmospheric was a nice way to ease into the journey.
Next, is the steep ascent from the upper lake up the Spinc, which is taxing and takes an hour or so (including one or two stops to take in the view and catch your breath). The landscape here changes from year-to-year as Coilte cuts and replants great swathes of forest at a time.
At the top you’re rewarded with panoramic views of Glendalough lake from quite a height and the walk from here, a slow and steady but more manageable ascent, is spectacular with views on the right of the drop to the lake and the monastic settlement miles behind us.
Instead of following the lake around to the right, we marched off-piste to the left, over the boggy ground, weaving around tufts of heather, in the direction of mount Lugduff. This part of the hike was steep and continues up the side of the mountain on a steady ascent over tough terrain. We felt like we were in the wilderness, there were no signs of civilization or even human activity. Instead, we saw a deer and two fawn, plenty of sheep as well as birds from time-to-time. The views back to Glendalough from this height are magnificent and include incredible expanses of heather in every shade of autumn: greens, oranges, purples and yellows. It was like an enormous tweed blanket had cloaked the mountains for as far as the eye could see.
When we were approaching the summit of Lugduff, we knew we were about half way through our hike and a good spot to stop for lunch. But don’t stay long, as the heat generated by the steep ascent will soon cool and stiffness can set in.
After lunch we quickly reached the summit and could look down on the easier part of the hike. This is a slow and steady descent and has views of various types of forrestation everywhere the eye can see. There are the first small signs of human activity, dirt tracks through the trees and huge stacks of chopped logs.
When we came through the forest we were greeted by another dramatic vista – Glenmalure Valley itself. This descent is manageable and coming in and out of forest trails for an hour or so, we eventually saw grey chimney smoke sifting up against the ever darkening green and brown background of the valley beyond. This was the first sign of our destination, an eighteenth century inn called Glenmalure Lodge, two stories of sash windows flickering in the dusk. What an evocative and welcome sight.
We eagerly entered and were struck by the low beamed ceilings, glowing fires and the worn flagstones underfoot. There are maps of Wicklow and framed photographs covering every inch of the walls. There are old brass pots and pans and ancient agricultural tools hung from all corners. There is excited chatter from every table. Never was a round of Guinness more deserved or tasted as good.
Looking out from the lodge while sipping our pints, we could see the Avonbeg river running through the valley. There was to be a rather Nordic twist to the day yet to come, with the mobile Bosca Beatha sauna and yurt taking up residence in a field in front of the lodge, by the riverbank (it’s there for the winter season). Lit by hanging fairy lights and lanterns, it was quite magical in the inky darkness. We took the plunge, and then moved quickly from the bracing river water to the steaming hot sauna ten yards away. We repeated this a few times for about forty minutes. Amazing!
Back to the lodge for hot showers and then downstairs for dinner. The fare is typically mountain influenced, racks of lamb, Angus steaks and medallions of venison were on offer, all served with roast potatoes and vegetables and the entire feast accompanied by lovely wine. You will not leave the table hungry.
There’s live music from about 10pm until midnight and this injects energy into the room which lifts exhausted hikers who have descended on the lodge from various parts of Wicklow.
Suffice to say we all slept like logs that night, but after the day we’d had, we’d have slept soundly in the fields outside.
A wonderful overnight hike!
Written by Mark Woodcock. In memory of Danny Dowling.
Note: If you are not a seasoned hiker and need assistance in organising a guide, the Glenmalure Lodge can help source a walking guide with advance notice.