A dermatologist on why your teenager doesn’t need an expensive skincare routine for Christmas
Children as young as eight are asking for skincare products for Christmas, but ingredients that are unnecessary for their age can do harm to their skin. Professor Nicola Ralph, consultant dermatologist and co-founder of The Institute of Dermatologists shares when skincare is needed, what to look for and why high-cost, trendy products are best avoided.
What Teens Don’t Need
In recent years, parents are being bombarded with requests for more and more sophisticated and high-cost skin care products for their children. It used to be that teenagers introduced skincare due to the development of acne to treat a medical skin condition, however, we are now seeing children as young as eight asking for skincare products as gifts despite having perfectly normal skin. Evidence is that social media is full of content on skincare which is specifically being targeted at younger people including tweens and pre-teens and even if not explicitly, the products are in packaging which appears to be designed to attract younger people with their bright colours, designs and catchy names.
Rather than allowing your children to choose inappropriate products with ingredients that may actually do harm to their skin because they are popular, it is best that parents educate their children on how to do a basic skincare routine and how to avoid using products that may irritate their skin.
When Teens Need Skincare
In all reality, if your child is preteen or younger and has perfectly normal skin with no tendency to spots, mild acne or eczema then they really don’t need a skincare routine. Children’s skin at a young age can certainly become more easily irritated and if your child suffers from eczema they have to be even more cautious as to which products are suitable for their skin. If you are starting to notice that your preteen or teenager is starting to develop mild acne then they certainly should consider starting a basic skincare routine to prevent further outbreaks.
As our hormones change at puberty we are more prone to the development of acne and up to 85% of all teenagers will experience “spots” at some point during their teenage years. Most will navigate it with the use of over-the-counter skincare, however, it is vital that if you are worried that your teenager may have moderate to severe acne or at any point you notice early scarring then you should bring them to their GP to discuss medical intervention alongside their skincare routine.
Keep Skincare Simple
Teenagers or pre-teens who may start to develop mild acne should consider starting a basic skincare routine which is especially important in the evening to remove the build-up of oil, dead skin cells and bacteria which builds up on the skin throughout the day.
Cleansing with a creamy cleanser should be performed twice (double cleansing), pat the skin dry and then apply a moisturiser containing ceramides to restore the skin barrier. Those who are prone to oily skin with a tendency to spots may wish to swap their creamy cleanser twice per week for a cleanser which contains BHA (salicylic acid) for a deeper cleanse of the pores but it is important not to overuse such products as they can dry out the skin leading to more irritation.
There are also many over-the-counter products that contain AHAs (lactic and glycolic acid) and BHAs (salicylic acid) which may be left onto the affected areas overnight, such as the t-zone of the face which is more prone to blocked pores and acne breakouts. These products do not need to be used nightly but preferably twice per week.
If your child is doing all of the above regularly but is concerned about their acne then they should seek medical attention to discuss medicated products to further help their skin.
The Skincare To Avoid
Young children, preteens and tweens with essentially normal skin should not be using active ingredients such as multiple acids (AHAs/BHAs). These ingredients do of course have many benefits in those who suffer from oily or acne-prone skin and for some anti-ageing benefits in adults but can lead to irritation, dermatitis and perioral dermatitis – to mention but a few skin conditions – if used incorrectly.
Topical retinoids/retinol/retinal should also be avoided in young people unless they are advised by their doctor to manage acne. Unfortunately, children are being exposed to pretty packaging whereby products contain some if not all of these ingredients and children are using them at too young an age, too frequently and at amounts that far exceed the recommended guidelines leading to all sorts of skin conditions.
Vitamin C is another skincare active that is being used by young children. This also is not necessary for young children. It is used for its skin brightening abilities as part of an anti-ageing skincare routine and is only recommended for adults as this too can lead to irritation of the skin.
How To Treat Breakouts
For younger children, tweens and teenagers who suffer with acne they should wash their face twice daily if possible but most importantly in the evening before bed. Ensure to clip any hair back from the face so that oily hair is not left in contact with the facial skin. Double cleanse with a creamy cleanser but twice per week consider washing with a salicylic acid-containing cleanser for a deeper cleanse of the pores. Pat the skin dry and apply a product containing AHA/BHA to the acne-affected areas. Allow this to dry for a few minutes and then apply a ceramide-containing moisturiser to help the skin barrier and prevent the dryness and irritation which may occur when using acids on the skin. For those who suffer with back acne or ‘bacne,’ they may also consider washing with salicylic acid-containing cleanser in the shower.
The Influence Of Social Media
Due to the pressures from social media, we are seeing a quest for “perfect skin”. The rise in younger and younger children using certain skincare products appears to come from what they are viewing online and we know that often what is seen on platforms such as TikTok or Instagram are unrealistic beauty standards which can have a toxic effect on their body image and self-esteem. It is vital that we explain to our children what is real and what is fake or filtered. Widespread use of filters and clever editing can distort our sense of reality and what “normal/real” skin actually looks like.
There is no such thing as “perfect skin” and this is certainly unhelpful for younger and younger children to be striving for something unachievable. Skincare products often use taglines promising flawless skin but this is actually preying on their vulnerabilities which can lead to dissatisfaction with their skin and unhappiness.
Photography by Rhode.
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