A dermatologist’s guide to post-summer skin treatments

MEET THE EXPERT

Professor Nicola Ralph, consultant dermatologist and co-founder of The Institute of Dermatologists

Does your skin feel dull and tired, has it lost its glow? Perhaps your skincare routine is not quite right for you or it could be as a result of the recent summer months. Summer is great for fresh air with more time outdoors enjoying sun, sea and sand, however, it can sometimes wreak havoc on our skin and skincare routines need to be adjusted as the autumn/winter season approaches. Here are the ways to achieve that rejuvenated, vibrant skin that we all covet by using skincare products and treatments to take away the dull, lacklustre appearance and bring back that hydrated, plumped and healthy, youthful glow we all desire.

There is most certainly an increase in a variety of skin conditions over the summer such as folliculitis as the warmer weather increases sweating. Some people also report an increase in acne or rosacea breakouts after holidays, while others report their facial pigmentation has worsened and sunspots have become more obvious on the face and back of the hands. There are many ways to tackle all of these skin concerns, from the addition of certain skincare ingredients to your daily routine which target specific conditions and incorporating treatments such as IPL (intense pulsed light), chemical peels, polynucleotides and much more.

Intense Pulse Light (IPL)

IPL is a fantastic treatment any time of year, but particularly good post-summer when many of us notice more freckles and pigmentation on the face and back of the hands due to daily, intense UV exposure. Even for those who use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, we can all still miss bits here and there or forget to reapply our SPF every two hours leading to an increase in pigmentation. Over years of UV exposure, we all notice the development of small, broken capillaries particularly on the cheeks and nose.

IPL is a revolutionary non-invasive skin treatment method that harnesses the power of high-intensity pulses of visible light to address a multitude of common skin concerns. This advanced technology is adept at targeting an array of pigmentation irregularities, including but not limited to sun spots, age spots, and freckles, effectively restoring a more even and radiant complexion.

IPL therapy is highly effective in combating vascular issues such as broken capillaries and rosacea, providing relief and noticeable improvement in skin tone and texture. By precisely targeting the affected areas with controlled pulses of light energy, IPL prompts the body’s natural healing response, gradually diminishing the appearance of these imperfections for a clearer and more uniform skin tone.
In addition to its pigment-correcting abilities, IPL therapy also boasts collagen-boosting properties. By stimulating collagen production, IPL helps to rejuvenate and firm the skin, visibly reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of ageing. This dual-action approach not only enhances the skin’s overall appearance but also promotes long-term skin health and vitality.

This treatment has minimal to no downtime – very mild tiny bruises or mild swelling. It takes approximately 30 minutes per session depending on the number of areas being treated. Even after one session, there will be a noticeable difference with a reduction in redness due to broken capillaries and areas of pigmentation may appear temporarily darker for a few days before they flake away. A course of 4-6 sessions is recommended ideally a month apart.

Never forget, in order to have a sustained benefit from your IPL treatment you should include the daily use of a great quality, broad-spectrum tinted sunscreen such as Elta MD UV Clear, €58, suitable for acne and rosacea, or Elta MD UV Elements, €57, suitable for those with sensitive skin. You want to reap the rewards from your treatment for as long as possible so this is a step in your skincare routine that you cannot afford to miss.

Dermaplaning

Should you wish to elevate your treatment, add dermaplaning to your IPL.

Dermaplaning is a non-invasive procedure that involves using a sterile surgical scalpel to gently exfoliate the surface of the skin, removing dead skin cells and fine vellus hair, commonly known as “peach fuzz.” This process leaves the skin feeling smooth and looking radiant, the perfect canvas for your make-up, and is a fantastic treatment before a special event.

By combining dermaplaning with IPL therapy, you’re essentially prepping the skin to maximise the effectiveness of the light treatment. Dermaplaning removes the layer of dead skin cells and fine hair that can act as a barrier, allowing the IPL to penetrate more efficiently into the deeper layers of the skin. This enhances the overall results of the IPL treatment.

After the combined treatment, you can expect not only the benefits of IPL therapy, such as improved skin tone and texture, reduction of pigmentation, and a more youthful appearance but also the immediate effects of dermaplaning including a smoother complexion and enhanced product absorption in the weeks thereafter.

For those of you who have no concerns regarding broken capillaries or redness but only dull and tired skin with increased pigmentation, consider the “Peel Plane and Glow” treatment! This includes a 3-step process of dermaplaning the skin to mechanically exfoliate the top layer of the epidermis and remove fine vellus hairs, followed by the application of a PCA medical grade peel to the skin, causing a chemical reaction in the skin which speeds up cell turnover rate, reduces pore size, and improves skin texture with reduced pigmentation of the skin resulting in the glow we all want. Lastly, Meso is microneedled into the skin at a superficial depth. Hyaluronic acid is the main ingredient in Meso, causing a plumping and hydrating effect to the skin. This is a great treatment suitable for most skin types with minimal downtime and it is recommended to have it done 10-14 days before an important event.

Chemical Peels

There are multiple chemical peels available depending on one’s skin concern and skin type, however, for those looking to reverse the signs of summer, a PCA medical-grade peel is most beneficial. This peel is pain-free with just a slight tingling sensation of the skin as it is gently applied using a special brush to the face, neck and décolletage. It stimulates the skin’s renewal process by accelerating cell turnover. Results include a reduction in pore size, refined skin texture and a more even skin tone with a reduction in pigmentation. There is no downtime after this procedure, one can resume normal activities but ensure tinted SPF is being used daily. Peels can be done monthly until the desired result is achieved and you have that post-summer youthful glow we all desire.

PhilArt Next

PhilArt Next is especially good for those who are in their late 20s to early 30s and beyond who wish to stimulate collagen to lift and tighten the skin. PhilArt Next is a superficial skin-boosting treatment that combines low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and polynucleotides with high purification technology (HPT) to help promote overall skin rejuvenation. The procedure involves multiple microinjections delivered to targeted areas allowing for a precise and effective treatment.

Long-chain polynucleotides are advanced bio-stimulating agents that promote fibroblast activity, collagen and elastin production helping improve skin texture and tone. The hyaluronic acid in PhilArt Next plumps and hydrates the skin. Together these powerful ingredients enhance the skin’s natural ability to retain moisture leading to hydrated skin with that youthful glow. This synergy improves skin elasticity, firmness and skin tone resulting in an overall improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles resulting in radiant skin.

It is used primarily to treat the face but may also be used to treat the neck, décolletage and the back of the hands. A course of treatment usually consists of three treatments 2-3 weeks apart with results lasting up to 6-12 months. The benefits from hyaluronic acid may be seen within 2-4 weeks while the collagen stimulation benefits will be seen over 3-6 months. Downtime is minimal with some small, superficial skin-coloured bumps which resolve within hours to 1-2 days and minimal tiny bruises.

Secret PRO

Secret PRO treatment is a revolutionary approach to skin revitalisation that integrates two clinically proven technologies within a single device. This innovative treatment combines CO2 laser energy for skin resurfacing with radiofrequency microneedling for deep dermal remodelling, offering comprehensive solutions for a wide range of skin ageing concerns. From fine lines and wrinkles to acne scars and uneven skin texture, Secret PRO addresses various skin issues effectively, catering to patients of all ages and skin types.

The Secret PRO treatment can produce remarkable results after just one session, thanks to its combination of CO2 laser energy and radiofrequency microneedling. However, the timeline for noticeable improvements varies depending on individual skin concerns. Some may see immediate results, while others experience gradual progress over days, weeks and months as the skin rejuvenates and new collagen is formed. Secret PRO consistently delivers smoother, firmer, and more youthful glowing skin.

One of the key advantages of Secret PRO treatment is its versatility and customizability. The dynamic duo of CO2 Fractional Ablation and Radiofrequency Microneedling allows us to tailor the treatment to each patient’s specific needs and preferences. Whether targeting fine lines and wrinkles, acne scars, or sun-damaged skin, Secret Pro offers a range of treatment options to address diverse skin concerns. Moreover, Secret Pro treatment can be combined with other therapies to further enhance results and expedite the healing process. For instance, Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) therapy can be integrated into the treatment protocol to promote tissue healing and collagen production. By harnessing the body’s natural healing mechanisms, PRP therapy complements the effects of Secret Pro treatment, leading to accelerated recovery and improved outcomes for patients.

The procedure takes approximately one hour depending on the number of areas being treated. This treatment is suitable for the full face, including eyes and also neck and décolletage. There is some discomfort during the treatment due to heat and pressure however this is very well managed with the use of oral and topical analgesia. Patients can expect downtime ranging from 3 to 7 days whereby there will be noticeable redness, swelling and tightness of the skin, followed by darkening of the surface layer and peeling of this layer. However, this is managed with customised skincare during the first week post-therapy. Typically one to two treatments are needed for optimal results. The glow appears most rapidly and even after one week the skin texture is phenomenal with a smooth canvas and significant reduction in pore size. It does however take 6 weeks up to a few months to start to see the true benefit from collagen stimulation. Treatment results are expected to last 18 months and more.

Profhilo

Profhilo offers an instant glow and hydration of the skin and is ideal for younger patients in their 20s and early 30s who are looking for that post-summer glow to be restored or in preparation for a big event such as a wedding. Profhilo is an extremely popular non-surgical, skin-boosting injectable treatment designed to combat skin laxity, effectively addressing facial lines and wrinkles while simultaneously improving skin tone, texture, and hydration. This innovative treatment is aimed at patients who exhibit visible signs of ageing skin and those who have dull, dehydrated skin. Profhilo stands out due to its use of stabilised injectable hyaluronic acid, which is indicated for the treatment of tissue remodelling and skin laxity. Remarkably, it is free of any chemical cross-linking agents, setting it apart from other products in the market.

Hyaluronic acid is a very powerful hydrating agent, attracting water to plump and rehydrate the dermis, giving the skin a radiant glow. Profhilo works by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, essential components for maintaining youthful and healthy skin, which makes it particularly beneficial for those who are experiencing early signs of ageing, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. By enhancing these structural proteins, Profhilo not only smooths out wrinkles but also revitalises and rejuvenates the overall appearance of the skin.

Profhilo is suitable for anyone who presents with early signs of ageing or wants to boost their skin’s hydration and radiance, especially after those summer months if you have spent it in the sun and heat. Its unique formulation and mode of action provide a holistic approach to skin rejuvenation, offering a natural and refreshed look without the need for invasive surgical procedures. The treatment process itself is quick and straightforward, typically involving a series of small injections (5 on each side of the face) administered over two sessions, spaced about four weeks apart. There is minimal downtime with small skin-coloured bumps lasting for a few hours to 1-2 days. It may also be used on other areas such as the neck, décolletage and the back of the hands.

Ultherapy

For those who wish to have no downtime and a treatment that gives long-lasting results without the need for a knife, resulting in lifting and tightening of the eye and brow area, midface and jawline, consider Ultherapy.

Ultherapy is an advanced non-surgical, non-invasive treatment that harnesses microfocused ultrasound to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin deep within the skin. This precise ultrasound energy targets the foundational layers of the skin without affecting its surface, initiating a natural rejuvenation process. Ultherapy has the ability to lift, sculpt, and tighten skin effectively, without the need for surgery. It holds the distinction of being the only FDA-cleared and EU CE mark-certified procedure for lifting the upper and lower face, under the chin, neck, and eyebrows, while also improving lines and wrinkles on the décolletage.

Unlike traditional surgical facelifts that involve needles and scalpels, Ultherapy utilises precise micro-focused ultrasound with visualisation (MFU-V) technology to reach deep layers of the skin. This process stimulates the body’s natural tissue repair response, prompting the production of fresh collagen and elastin for gradual and noticeable skin lifting. Skin concerns which can be addressed with Ultherapy include skin laxity and sagging, lowered brows, sagging under the chin and jawline, loose skin on the neck and lines and wrinkles on décolletage.

Some patients may notice an immediate effect following their treatment, but the full results of Ultherapy develop gradually over 2-3 months. During this time, new collagen production lifts and tightens the skin on the neck, chin and brow, while smoothing the skin on the chest area. A typical treatment takes 60-90 minutes with mild, fleeting discomfort depending on the energy being delivered to the skin. There is minimal downtime and one can resume normal activities immediately. While Ultherapy doesn’t replicate the dramatic outcomes of a facelift, it is a clinically proven non-invasive alternative suitable for individuals who aren’t yet prepared for surgery. It can also serve as an option for patients looking to prolong the effects of cosmetic surgery.

To make a booking at The Cosmetic Suite at The Institute of Dermatologists, call 01 912 3030 or email info@instituteofdermatologists.ie. See The Institute of Dermatologists website for more information.

A version of this article originally appeared in the Autumn 2024 issue of IMAGE Magazine, on shelves now.

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