By Holly O'Neill
09th Jul 2019
09th Jul 2019
Take a bow, Pat McGrath.
CHANEL
It was Virginie Viard’s first haute couture show since taking over as Artistic Director of fashion collections at Chanel, and it did not disappoint.”I dreamt about a woman with nonchalant elegance and fluid and free silhouette; everything I like about the Chanel allure,” said Viard. The Grand Palais transformed into a circular library and Viard, a lover of books, had a vision of women eager for culture, poetry and novels in mind. “The women are in a library, luxurious elegant readers,” said Lucia Pica, Global Creative Makeup and Colour Director at Chanel, who created the peachy, clean skin, fluffy brows and straight graphic liner at the show. “I thought it would be interesting to give them a really strong eyebrow with a masculine sense in the inner part and then an elongation which gives them a sense of authority and confidence.”
CHRISTIAN DIOR
The beauty look at any Dior show is always a highlight and Dior’s fall 2019 couture show was no different, with creative director of Christian Dior Makeup Peter Philips creating a modern take of a sultry smokey eye, sans mascara. “It’s a smoky eye, but almost like a very classic haute couture makeup,” said Philips. “I wanted to do a smoky eye that was not too sexy, so I did more of a poetic but tough smoky eye. That’s why I left out the mascara. Once you leave out of the mascara, it becomes less about seduction — it’s more about a cloud of shadow.”
ELIE SAAB
If you see my eyeliner looking a bit wild this week, blame it on this muted metallic grungy eyeshadow wing at Elie Saab, which travelled from lid right past the eyebrows.
ARMANI PRIVÉ
Linda Cantello, Giorgio Armani’s International Make-up Artist, reimagined 90’s Armani history to create the lengthy, vintage lashes at Armani Privé. “Reworking the strong Armani Beauty Code of the early 90s, we emphasized the top lashes for a simple graphic eye,” explains Cantello. “A diva-like attitude to celebrate Armani.”
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FENDI
Is this the most Instagrammed look from the couture shows? In Rome, Sam McKnight created blunt and rounded bob wigs for all models at Fendi, in muted pastels inspired by Roman marble.
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MAISON MARGIELA
Brace yourself for the most John Galliano of inspirations; at a ranch in Arizona, he met “ a wonderful horse called Blue.” This collection was an ode to Blue, and Galliano appointed Pat McGrath and Eugene Souleiman to create feather-adorned hair and half-and-half painted faces to represent the collection, which was a reflection on a breakdown of social structures and decay. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
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VALENTINO
“Extravagance is individuality in its purest, rawest form,” was the theme at Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino haute couture show, perfectly represented by make-up artist Pat McGrath’s show-stopping graphic liner, swoops of rainbow glitter and bleached brows. Trust Pat McGrath to create eyeliner that could steal the spotlight from Valentino couture.
Viktor & Rolf
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Givenchy
At Givenchy, Pat McGrath’s dewy skin was paired with Guido Palau’s sculptural aerodynamic hairstyles “that were like birds in flight,” to represent the inspiration for Clare Waight Keller’s collection, “ a bird woman trapped in the house.”
Backstage photography via Chanel, Giorgio Armani and Jason Lloyd Evans.
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