Whether yearning for a whole new look, in search of something fresh and flattering, or wanting a haircut that screams elegance and style, the iconic bob ticks so many boxes, and all at once. What do you need to know before anyone starts wielding the scissors?
When it comes to haircuts, and our ever-present desire for makeovers, fresh starts, and finding our definitive, signature style, how many different haircuts, colours and lengths have we tried? It would be rare to find any woman who’s come of age and not gone for some sort of chop at least once. But hot on the heels of Pippa O’Connor and Vogue Williams, Irish women are being tempted by the blunt, shorter haircuts that bear more than a passing nod to an iconic style.
The bob is the original transformative cut, one with a version to suit everyone. As most know, its origins come from the 1960s when Twiggy, Mary Quant and Liza Minnelli made Vidal Sassoon’s short, angular haircut the only thing to pair with mini-skirts, panda eyes and a rebellious attitude. Some were very short and pointy, others added bouffant backcombing to the crown, others still were longer, like a feminine full stop, and many incorporated heavy or geometric fringes. As the style passed from generation to generation, adaptations evolved; undercuts, curves, shaved sideburns, precision cutting, as well softer options that leave scope for waves and different styling, which seems to be what we’re seeing lots of right now.
Finding the bob for you is a process of discovery, according to Adam Cunningham, educator and salon manager of Zeba, Sandymount and one that involves a detailed consultation. “There’s definitely a cut that works for every woman. If you’ve got good bone structure and a good jawline, lucky you, you can wear whatever style you want.
“Getting more specific, a bob can enhance other facial types. There are bobs to balance out square jaws, cuts to flatter the neck area and a bob that dips forward at the front can frame and slim the face, if that is what the client desires. However, I’d be a huge advocate of wearing the haircut you love. It really doesn’t matter what the experts say, if you want a particular style, you’ll have the confidence to wear it well. Hair in 2024 is so much less about ‘trend’ and more about the individual.”
When it comes to bob styles, a good cut is essential, but then home maintenance is just as important. “I’m very hesitant to cut a bob for a client without going through all the downsides first,” says international hair stylist and educator Conor Doyle.
“The first thing I’ll always ask is, do you have time to style this every morning? Depending on their hair type, I’ll explain what’s involved to get it to look like my cut on the day. I’ll show them a couple of styling techniques, but first and foremost, it’s going to require maybe an extra 10 or 15 minutes every day. If they’re okay with that, and open to embracing clips and hairbands, then rock on.”
When it comes to overall personal style, a bob is the epitome of a statement haircut. “It’s a strong look,” says Karen Roberts, owner of The Hive salon in Dublin. “And remember, you’re now dressing from the head down every day, so you need to commit, and lean in with statement fashion and make-up – like a strong cat-eye – to complement your overall look. Adding a fringe to a bob is a great way to amplify personal style.
Dawn French’s sharp, heavy fringe is so much part of her, while Gen Ys more often opt for curtain bangs which can be styled in various ways.” “Waves are always high in demand,” notes Adam, “and work well with choppy ends, like the way Vogue Williams wears her bob. I always remind clients that they’ll most likely come into the salon for waves, so don’t decide on a haircut centred around that level of home maintenance.”
When it comes to colour with a bob, there are a couple of key considerations to keep in mind. “First to remember is that once the hair is cut into style, you’re dealing with a different surface area to colour,” says Conor. “So if you want to be blonde, you’ll probably have to commit to a more high-maintenance service and more time in the chair to facilitate this shorter hair.
“But there’s actually a lot you can play around with here. I love doing really textural types of highlights – like somebody spent summer on Bondi Beach vibes – and then letting colour grow out a bit as autumn approaches.” Adam has strong feelings on colour not competing with cut.
“The bob is the statement. You wouldn’t match a Chanel blazer with Louis Vuitton trousers, so I’d be a huge advocate in keeping everything else minimal and simple. Lots of women traditionally veer towards red and copper tones coming into autumn and while I’m about that most of the time, I love to see a really blonde head, with a root melt which sees those roots get warmer and the drag gets a bit longer as winter approaches. I would stay away from too long a root with a bob, that’s for longer hair, a tap is enough.”
Looking at overall style, Karen adds, “Balayage, money pieces and face-faming highlights all work well with bobs. Equally, I think a bleached bob is the coolest thing for someone with quite an androgenous look.”
Karen is an advocate for the use of extensions in enhancing the sharpest, sleekest bobs. “Often clients might be growing out a hairstyle, or may have thinner hair at the side, so the addition of some extensions will sharpen a bob cut, create a heavier baseline, and extend the choice of style we can go for. Right now, there are loads of options between bonds and tapes, but there is also a new generation of super-fine extensions coming down the line that can be invisibly attached, hair-by-hair, to fringes and hairlines. These add length and density to parts of the head that were notoriously difficult to blend or give volume.”
“I’m not surprised women with long hair absolutely love bobs once they’re cut,” says Conor. “And there definitely seems to be a spark of a trend for them right now. I always notice bobs become popular towards the end of summer and this year, I get it. My own hair is longer than a bob, and I cannot wear it down because it’s so clammy. Just remember, you’re entering a whole new world. Be prepared to cut your hair more frequently, and spend some time looking at YouTube because styling is a completely different ball-game. But once you get with it, there’s nothing better than some air on the neck!”
The 10 golden rules for brilliant bobs
- Length is almost always decided by the confidence level of the wearer… the more confidence the client has, the shorter they go.
- Length is a great way to flatter features; a longer bob that can conceal extra neck and/or slim a face. To enhance a jawline, opt for a bob that dips at the front.
- Fringes add to a signature look.
- Remember, with a bob, you’re now dressing from head down, so enhance your personal style with clothes and makeup to amplify your statement.
- Commit to 10-15 extra minutes a day for styling time. If you’re in a rush, wash and dry the fringe and fix the rest with dry shampoo.
- Don’t let a colour compete with the cut. Let your bob be the star, and then enhance with highlights, root taps or balayage.
- Bulk out thin, straggly sides with a few well-placed extensions for super-sharp results.
- If you have wavy or curly hair, apply leave-in-conditioner to wet hair in the shower. This will ensure the product is more evenly distributed and results in better styling.
- Commit to more time in the salon, and more frequent haircuts.
- When it comes to home maintenance, YouTube is a great resource for styling tips.
The experts’ favourite products for styling a bob
Conor Doyle
Great for prep, Eleven Australia I Want Body Volume Foam (€18) allows you to play around with bending different shapes and kinds of loose waves. The brand’s I Want Body Texture Spray (€19.95) holds a style beautifully while still giving it an uncontrived, undone look, while Olaplex No 6 Bond Smoother (€29.50) is a stellar styling cream to tame coarse/dry hair into a sleek bob.
Karen Roberts
Color Wow Style on Steroids Texture Spray (€29) gives excellent root lift and volume, the essential start when blow-drying a bob. After a fresh salon blow-dry, use Moroccan Oil Dry Shampoo (€20.95) to add an extra day or two to your style – it comes in light and dark tones. Finally, a great quick home or in-salon treatment between cutting and colouring is Wella Color Fresh mask (€18.45). It nourishes the hair and adds a semi-permanent tint to keep colour looking amazing.
Adam Cunningham
The iconic Kerastase Bain Satin shampoo and conditioner (€54.95) that launched the brand offers ultra-light nourishment for silky-soft hair, while Kerastase Discipline Fondant Fluidéaliste (€35) is great for frizzy or curly hair, and also works as a heat-protectant when styling. In terms of kit, GHD Helios hair dryer (€189) is the best one I’ve ever used. Strong, quick and effective, but safe. It has a built-in light – if you get too close or hair gets too hot, it flashes to let you know.
This article originally appeared in the Autumn 2024 issue of IMAGE.
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