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While September is traditionally known as fashion month, with the global fashion tour hitting the capitals of Paris, New York, London, and Milan, August brings a unique twist. It’s the turn of the unofficial fifth fashion capital, Copenhagen, to host its annual Scandi showcase of the coolest brands, emerging talent, and cult favourites. This year, the calendar was dominated by brands like Rotate and Munthe and the exciting debut of Irish designer Sinéad O’Dwyer as Zalando’s Visionary Award winner.
While last year’s Copenhagen Fashion Week might have been hit by unseasonable weather (read: rain), the sun shone brightly for the 2025 spring sartorial parade. Designers took full advantage of the excellent weather, staging shows in various elaborate al fresco venues, from athletic stadiums to royal gardens and parks. Even indoor locations ranged from breweries, complete with beer for the show-goers, to large warehouses decked out in elaborate sets.
While the staging of the shows might have been dramatic, the clothes that walked the non-traditional catwalks also lived up to the diverse locations. Techno was the resounding genre for many shows, with models marching to an electronic beat.
At Marimekko, trance blasted through the speakers as a few trickles of rain arrived but disappeared as quickly as it came. The runway was instantly brightened with the kaleidoscope of prints on show, with all looks styled up with runners and models walking fast-paced to the beat.
With a blue-tinged athletic field, the sporty theme continued at Baum Und Pfetgarten as models raced down the track to ‘Personal Jesus’ by Depeche Mode. Clothing played up to the sporty atmosphere with football shirts, trailing tulle, and sequins teamed with stripes.
So, what else is in store for spring 2025?
Spring 2025 is poised to embrace the bold, bratty green. Highlighter lime green is undeniably the newest shade of the season, and its reign is set to continue in 2025. At A. Roege Hove, it came in body-sculpting knits; at Baum, it came glittering; and at Sinéad O’Dwyer, lattice bodysuits in neon green were teamed with lace underwear from Savage by Fenty. While strong-silhouetted satin dresses and coats were crafted in the zesty hue at Forza Collective.
The art world and its surroundings greatly inspired designers’ ss25 collections. The Garment unveiled its Arts Club collection at the Thorvaldsens Museum, with the historic venue’s influence taking centre stage in the classic elegant meets modern sensibility collection. Lovechild 1979 looked to the abstract watercolours of Eva Hesse, channelling her muted palette and fluidity with their fabrics. MKDT drew from a rich source of influences, most notably Indian architect Bijoy Jain. Their collection embraced a harmonious blend of craftsmanship and nature, with earthy tones and intricate 3D floral motifs.
For Munthe, art is more than just inspiration – it’s an ethos. This season, a hand-crafted pressed floral print became the standout motif. Rotate took inspiration from the 1920s with a collection that reflected the decade of escapism and frivolity. They hosted the show in Copenhagen’s Royal Library gardens to further enhance their vision, with models circling art-deco flowing foundations designed in the twenties. Sinéad O’Dwyer showcased her looks on pathways at the Opera Park using sculptures based on 3D scans of Sinéad’s early cast works of artist Jade O’Belle that perfectly reflected the collection’s colours.
It wouldn’t be Copenhagen Fashion Week without a hefty dose of refined minimalism. Delivering its signature brand of effortlessly chic pared-back aesthetic reminding us once again why the Scandinavian fashion capital holds its place as the pioneer. Neutral tones and palette cleansing hues like stoney taupe and slate grey emerged. While clean, crisp white added a touch of purity to the proceedings. Serene shades aren’t simple; designers played with texture, silhouettes and form.
