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From rosettes to red: The trends to note from Copenhagen Fashion Week

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by Corina Gaffey
06th Feb 2024

Stylist Corina Gaffey takes us through the biggest fashion trends spotted at Copenhagen Fashion Week this year.

Before February’s fashion month proceedings, the style set descended on Copenhagen for the Danish capital’s fashion week, which showcased some seriously slick Scandi brands. While last summer’s Copenhagen Fashion Week might have been an unseasonable washout in terms of weather, with a rainy forecast, it was thankful for a bright, crisp January, which allowed show-goers to showcase the ultimate in street-style ensembles. 

This style parade continued on the catwalk, with a diverse mix of emerging talent, stalwarts, and cult-favourite Scandi brands spanning 29 shows and 10 presentations on the schedule. Style moments, surprise appearances, covetable classics, and stand-out statement trends were all on the agenda. Here are the trends you need to know from Copenhagen Fashion Week AW24. 

Decked-out denim 

From diamante to fringing, printed to patchwork, amped-up jeans stole the spotlight at Munthe, Gestuz, Stamm, and Marimekko. Munthe and Gestuz went down the disco denim route, with jeans fit for the dancefloor dripping in diamantes that shimmied as the models walked. 

Layering

Showcasing autumn looks, you’d likely expect some layering. But this wasn’t just to keep you toasty from the chill; designers layered three to four garments, playing with proportions and hemlines, proving more is more when it comes to dressing. There was a noughties nostalgic trend of skirts over trousers at TG Botanical and J.Lindeberg and decidedly chic layering of silky skirts under blazers and skirts at Lovechild 1979. Hoodies were stacked under sleek outerwear at Baum and under fairisle knits at Rolf Elkroth. 

 

Knit scarves 

If you want to battle inclement weather in style, a particular styling hack has migrated from the street style set to the runway – doubling up your jumper. Seen at Opéra Sport and Aeron, two jumpers were layered upon, with Aeron opting for identical and Opéra Sport fashioning a contrast knit as a scarf. 

 

Red hot 

Red remains the must-wear shade, from fire engine red to oxblood, black cherry to burgundy. Rotate decked out their runway with masses of red carpet and continued the theme with red floral appliques and slinky little red dresses. Designers Aeron, Remain, and Nicklas Skovgaard tapped into the rich red of burgundy. Aeron teamed the luxe red shade with fuchsia, and Remain paired it with lilac for the ultimate in unexpected colour combos. 

 

Sheer 

At this point, translucent clothing is a stalwart trend of Copenhagen Fashion Week, and it was everywhere again this year. Ranging from slinky panels of transparency to see-through show-your-pants style, designers including Rotate, Remain, and Aeron flashed the flesh. Often, sheerness and sparkle were merged with delicate, subtle sequins crafted upon gauzy textiles, as seen at Remain, Rotate, and Baum Und Pferdgarten. 

 

Pink

While there were flashes of Barbie pink, most notably at Aeron and J.Lindeberg, others went rose-tinted with soft, sweet pink as the hue of choice at Munthe, Stine Goya, and Wood Wood. But the saccharine shade was far from childish and was given a grown-up makeover by designers, especially when devised in sophisticated heavy-weight satin and silks. 

Stockings and socks

Far from basic tights and socks were trending both off and on the runway. The street style set mainly opted for bold shades, particularly red, but on the catwalks, it was all about muted, neutral hues that made stylish additions to the runway looks. 

 

Puffer 

During the pandemic, it seemed like we reached peak puffer, mainly because we were forced to go outdoors for dining and socialising. However, the pandemic puffers were heavy on practicality and usually dark-hued. For autumn 2024, designers at Copenhagen Fashion Week are touting the bright, fun, patterned puffer to give a dopamine hit to your winter wardrobe. 

 

Celebrity inspo 

Kate Moss has undoubtedly been on many designer mood boards throughout her illustrious career, and that was no different this season with Sak Potts inspired by Ms.Moss’ noughties era. Kate’s iconic Glasto style was the primary fashion reference, as envisioned by the brand in the form of mini dresses with statement belts. Another muse on Rotate’s mood board was Elizabeth Taylor, specifically her weddings. The finale featured eight new wedding styles in a tribute to Elizabeth Taylor’s eight marriages. 

 

Finishing touches 

To up the ante of more minimalist styles, designers played with ornate brooches, opera-length gloves, rosettes, shrugs, and hand-warmers. At Baum, a simple monochromatic outfit was given a 3D effect with floral embellishment. Rotate went supersized with rosette detailing atop mini skirts. Long black dresses and classic grey blazers were made bolder with the addition of simple silver brooches at Aeron, Mark Kenly Domino Tan and Skall Studio. Elbow-length gloves in see-through fabrics, latex, and leather added interest and texture to the Rotate, Gestuz, Wood Wood and Stine Goya ensembles. Meanwhile, faux fur shoulder shrugs at Opéra Sport leaned into the winter mob wife aesthetic.

Photography by James Cochrane. Feature image via @emilisindlev on Instagram.

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