From Simone Rocha to JW Anderson, Corina Gaffey shares her London Fashion Week highlights
After a week going from fashion show to fashion show, stylist to the stars Corina Gaffey takes us through the standout moments from Irish designers at London Fashion Week 2023.
Come September, fashion month is in full swing, with the style merry-go-round and fash-pack, travelling to New York, London, and Milan before finally landing in Paris this week. Last week was London’s turn on the fashion calendar, hosting shows across the city with style big hitters, including Burberry, 16 Arlington and Roksanda, and fresh, emerging designers like Ahluwalia, Frolov and Tolu Coker. But, Irish creativity was, too, at the fore at London Fashion Week. Homegrown talent was bountiful this season, from designers showcasing like Simone Rocha to Sinead O’Dwyer to behind-the-scenes with Irish stylists putting together the looks for the runways.
With a collection entitled Il Giardino (The Garden), Paul Costelloe kicked off proceedings on the first day, aptly located in the Royal Horticultural Halls. Models emerged from an illustrated backdrop in a series of looks ideal for al fresco soirees. Clutching croquet and tennis racquets, they walked the catwalks kitted out in deck chair linen stripes, preppy knitwear, and wide-leg high-waisted trousers. Pretty dresses were plentiful, with flower garden party styles a given, but marbled gossamer silk and cream lace drop-waist styles were some of the highlights.
Subverting the ‘florals for spring narrative’, Simone Rocha put forward her own distinct version of bloom-tinged dresses by gathering bunches of roses underneath tulle and manipulating fabrics to recreate 3D flowers. But it wasn’t just floral dresses that Rocha made covetable and cool; she also gave Crocs a fashion-girl makeover, embellishing them with pearls, crystal and jet beading that will undoubtedly be a cult item come spring.
Also added to the fashion pack’s spring wish lists was JW Anderson’s feather-lined oversized parka coats that sat among a cross-section of wearable basics with optical illusioned styles. Always one to play with proportions and fabrics, Anderson leaned into a nostalgic and youthful sensibility by moulding hoodies and shorts from plasticine. Show notes said the collection was about “putting playfulness in pragmatism and putting pragmatism in playfulness.” Anderson came to play but didn’t stop at clay, showing puffed-up padded vinyl pieces like cargo trousers and t-shirts in shades of electric blue and mandarin.
Returning to Fashion East for a third season, Standing Ground’s Michael Stewart presented his signature evening gowns with a collection inspired by ancient seas and his home turf. Models emerged on the runway with sleek, wet-look hair and statuesque floor-skimming dresses in moss green and powder blue. Stewart’s sculptural flair, elegant draping, subtle beading and use of sumptuous fabrics proved he is the go-to for modern glamour and eveningwear.
