‘I couldn’t compete with the major labels so chose to focus on craftsmanship and couture’
After over two decades of experience as a graphic designer, Helen Hayes decided to switch gears and returned to college to study fashion design. One year after she graduated, she launched her eponymous label. Known for combining simple silhouettes with intricate finishes, one piece can take up to 70 hours to create.
I grew up on a farm in Tipperary where I was introduced to traditional handcrafts from a very early age.
Initially, I pursued a career in graphic design, before deciding to return to college and study at the Grafton Academy of Fashion Design. I graduated in 2015 and set up my own label the following year.
I started my label slowly, intent on finding my niche.
Over time, I have realised that in each collection I have made, the garments have highlighted the handcrafted techniques I first learnt as a child. Women like the tactile nature of my work and how the carefully considered details make them feel while wearing the pieces. My mission is to build my label, rooted in these traditional techniques and use them to inspire new innovative approaches. I aim to reimagine these methods in a subtle way while maintaining a strong focus on the exquisite craftsmanship of couture.
I was always interested in art and design and first studied graphic design at the Limerick School of Art & Design.
I think my studies there and my years working in that industry helped shape my approach to fashion, to some extent.
Early on, I realised I couldn’t compete with the major labels.
Instead, I chose to focus on craftsmanship and the couture end of the market so I make each piece to order. I made my first ready-to-wear collection for the Create pop-up in Brown Thomas, introducing my white shirts, black waistcoats and square bags there. These have become my signature pieces and reflect my commitment to highlighting handcrafted techniques in new and innovative ways. The ribbon dresses are more recent additions, adding a new textural element to my designs.
I am a member of the Council of Irish Fashion Designers and I’m so impressed with the diversity of the group.
Each of these small labels is working hard in a difficult industry. It is chaired by Eddie Shanahan and he does an incredible job for us all.
Money was a concern initially but I started slowly and have continued trying to balance creativity with practical financial considerations.
In fashion, as with so many industries, creating a product requires upfront investment in materials, creating a website, marketing and more. Find your niche area and develop it.
I particularly like any account that shows the making of vintage pieces of fashion.
It is wonderful to see the focus on the making and the techniques used by some of the past greats in fashion. A vintage handcrafted dresscoat is my best fashion purchase to date. It is an incredible piece of handwork that has no label on it. It is a truly beautiful garment.
The most useful thing I’ve learned since setting up a business is the importance of having a plan and sticking to it.
Without a plan, I feel disorganised and overwhelmed.
My proudest moments are always ‘firsts’.
The first time I took part in the ARC Cancer Support fashion show, my beautiful feature this year in Anthology Magazine, being included in a feature on Irish fashion in the Financial Times Magazine. The first time my work was included in a fashion shoot. My first cover. There have been many moments and it’s incredibly hard to pick just one as I’m proud of them all.
I want to be remembered as a designer who creates timeless garments in simple silhouettes.
I want my designs to make each client feel confident and comfortable when they wear them. I am always delighted when a client leaves me happy and excited to wear the piece they have commissioned.
Imagery courtesy of Helen Hayes.
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